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LaughingSquirrel

[TR] Li Ming, Yunnan, China - Multiple trad routes 1/14/2013

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Trip: Li Ming, Yunnan, China - Multiple trad routes

 

Date: 1/14/2013

 

Trip Report:

Hey all, for those of us who are still addicted to crack in the mix of puzzling hard bolt protected routes, there are still new cracks being climbed. This valley in Northern Yunnan has seen many first ascents this fall. Including a possible 5.13/13+ that needs an FFA. On top of this Black Diamond and the North Face also put on China's first trad climbing festival here.

 

I've started developing in a whole new valley and have put up a grip of new routes some 5.8's, 9's,10's, 11's, and yes even 12's. Here are a few pics. Li Ming is now totally close to 200 routes with only 2 years of climbing development. I develop trad professionally in China and if you want to keep in touch please check out my blog at

mikedobie.tumblr.com

 

At some point I will post a TR on the last expedition to keketuohai! Which is up and coming with over 50 routes and we've managed to settle the access issues.

 

Peace be the journey!

Mike Dobie

 

Major Climbing Valley

0261.JPG

 

A route called Ahkum Rah

akham_rah_3-1.jpg

 

Upper layback section of Ahkum Rah

akhum_rah_2.jpg

 

Sarah on Brazen Hussie

sarah_shredding.jpg

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Its like Indian Creek but the lines have more personality. A double rack of cams will do you well.

 

Approach Notes:

Fly over the pacific ocean to Beijing, Shang hai, or Hong kong. Then fly to Lijiang, Yunnan

 

then take a 3 hour bus to Li Ming

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one day some motherfucker'll invent a teleporter and maybe i'll be able to put in an appearance - sure looks purty....

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only a month's take home pay? i'm sure the wife'll be thrilled! :grin:

 

i'm considering becoming a buddhist so i can look forward to climbing this, and many other exotic things, in a future life :)

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haha, yeah that would be pretty sweet. I know this area seems really far away, but I post on here because I am from Port Townsend, WA. Need to let everyone know that the PNW tradition is expanding to other parts of the world. Special thanks to the boys that taught me to trad, Austin Stringham, who learned from Mark Webster, and Brandon Workman, who taught me development and trad, which was passed down to him by Dallas Kloke. Thanks you guys. Be passionate and do it for love.

 

You rock, Mike Dobie

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