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alecapone

bottum 5 of 2012

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it's not all smoked salmon and virgins.

 

1. too ealry season of an attempt at snowboarding mt logan.. 3 cold wet night, frozen shoes, and epic bushwhacking our way to know where.. with kyle miller

 

2. kicking off and getting caught in, if only for a second, an avalanche. my first, but not cool at all. fucking embarassing.

 

3. deep snow free soloing at heather ridge. landed on my back, made a bomb hole, then almost died choking on cold smoke as the hole refilled itself. it's all fun and games til you dig up your blue friend.

 

4. losing to many good aquaintances.

 

5. not having john plotz in my top 5...

 

 

last year was as bad as it was good. if not worse.

 

stay safe, stay thirsty my friends.

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1. Breaking my ankle (both bones) and limping around for 6 mos. (WI 5 on slippery sidewalks with crutches).

2. Carpal tunnel syndrome from typing and climbing too much.

3. Nerve damage in my toes from tight rock shoes (I have lost my toenails each of the last 20 years and they have given up)

4. Moving away from my climber friends in Seattle.

5. Getting older kinda sucks.

 

But I have many hopes, dreams, and memories to sustain me. And 20"13" should be a lucky year.

Edited by matt_warfield

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nice concept :)

 

- slogging all the way to the base of the n face of hood w/ nastia n' nick n' getting turned back by an uncrossable 'shrund (though not till after both nick and i had tried n' failed, n' nastia had plunged into the abysss while i had her on a shoulder belay :) )

 

- ferrying 6 metric tons of bullshit to the base of the zodiac on el cap and climbing the first two pitches only for a certain un-named partner to discover he no longer had the time nor inclination to continue the ascent :P

 

- doing the big approach to mt berge w/ tvashie on the labor day weekend only to be scuttled by arctic cold n' high winds when, dipshits that we were, we'd only brought light bags, no tent, and little by way of warm clothes...the wind kept us shivering and i couldn't hardly keep my damn smokes lit :noway:

 

- my revenge on stein's pillar ruined by an emergency apendectomy :grin:

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Okay, this is a good thread, but the stories won't always be in 2012:

 

-gf couldn't perform after a monster approach

-friend who got intimidated in Boulder CO and abadoned me and climbing forever.

-near fight at the Boulderfield on the way to the Diamond

-dropping my lumbar pack on the Diamond and having to rap back to get it and on the way pass Cameron Tague's rope, a 5.13 climber, but snow is not rock and he died, rope dropped in by his gf because she didn't want to see it again.

 

If you climb enough you see some shit. Some good, some bad, but it comes with the territory.

 

 

 

Edited by matt_warfield

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the diamond story could use some elaboration as i've no idea what happened?

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Ok, you asked for it,

 

2:00 at the Longs Peak TH, which is happy hour at Estes Park.

 

Storm in on the trail guns blazing, at the Boulderfield meet a hiker that doesn't appreciate loud conversation at 5:00 a.m. and protests. We point out that climbers frequent the area so they can get on route around 6:00 a.m. to avoid the lightning. He sees our bulging biceps, pecs, and triceps and retreats to his tent.

 

The rap in to avoid the N. Chimney (you can check how many people have died in the N. Chimney approach) was affected by a stuck rope but we were still on the rock by 6:00. Great climbing and nearly off the rock at 11:00 when the pack was dropped. Instead of hiking off we needed to rap back and get it (car keys and wallet were involved).

 

After passing by Tague's rope there were several more raps including one with a spike of rock on the ledge about 12" high for anchor so you had to slither on your stomach to keep from pulling the anchor off while engaging the rappel. Found the pack, all is good except the walk out.

 

On the way back was a ranger who was cutting switchbacks cuz they want the public to follow the rules but they know the shortcuts. Game on! Needless to say we made it back just behind to avoid legal issues.

 

I was never sleepier in my life at 6:00 p.m.

 

Luckily my wifey wasn't there to lock me out of the condo in my boxers. Late night antics are poor for an alpine start.

 

The climber's dilemma.

Edited by matt_warfield

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-gf couldn't perform after a monster approach

 

 

 

Bummer. Blue balls suck.

 

I took care of it.

 

sure that aint where the carpel tunnel came from?

 

 

i feel you though. i almost had a serious break down when I lost my job because I couldn't hang onto my tools anymore.

 

funny Ivan. I can at least say john would make my bottum ten if we went that far. I took spring clothes to snow show and hudled between some rocks to die of hypothermia on berge while john continued on. like it's friggen everest summit fever or something. I imagined how I would become a iconic landmark like blue boots, but john came back and we went skiing.

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who is this tague feller though, and how did he meet his demise?

 

Tague felt his demise after doing multiple 5.13 trad routes in Eldorado and then trying his about 50th route on the Diamond, slipped on the snow and went to heaven. He is in one of the climbing videos.

 

I am a student of climbing since BC, like many on this site that are more shy.

 

That's why I would rather drop on the gear from rock than slip on the "whispering wind" of snow (Led).

Edited by matt_warfield

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"Some of the most tragic accidents have come when climbers mismanaged this distinction, becoming blasé on easy terrain. On July 6, 2000, Cameron Tague made the approach to the Diamond Face on Long's Peak. To get to the midway point on the cliff, he decided to traverse in from the side, along a big sloping ledge called Broadway. For a climber as gifted as Tague, it would be an easy traverse, and to save time for the difficult climbing higher on the face, he didn't even bother to rope up. Then somehow, he lost his concentration, pulled on a loose piece of stone, and stumbled backward. Tague tried to recapture his balance, his hands grasping and waving about as he skittered toward the edge of the ledge. He disappeared over the edge of Broadway and fell 800 feet. The probabilities of falling were remote, but the consequences were lethal."

 

From: http://www.fastcompany.com/47527/leadership-lessons-rock-climber

 

Better write up in ANAM 2001, but I don't have that at my fingertips. Very sad.

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"Some of the most tragic accidents have come when climbers mismanaged this distinction, becoming blasé on easy terrain. On July 6, 2000, Cameron Tague made the approach to the Diamond Face on Long's Peak. To get to the midway point on the cliff, he decided to traverse in from the side, along a big sloping ledge called Broadway. For a climber as gifted as Tague, it would be an easy traverse, and to save time for the difficult climbing higher on the face, he didn't even bother to rope up. Then somehow, he lost his concentration, pulled on a loose piece of stone, and stumbled backward. Tague tried to recapture his balance, his hands grasping and waving about as he skittered toward the edge of the ledge. He disappeared over the edge of Broadway and fell 800 feet. The probabilities of falling were remote, but the consequences were lethal."

 

From: http://www.fastcompany.com/47527/leadership-lessons-rock-climber

 

Better write up in ANAM 2001, but I don't have that at my fingertips. Very sad.

 

Thanks for that. Here's the shit on Broadway: very open to begin with then you cross N. Chimney, then Casual, then steapens toward Pervertical and it is "dangerous". 45 deg. snow can be more dangerous than 90 deg. rock.

 

Thanks for posting that report.

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- slogging all the way to the base of the n face of hood w/ nastia n' nick n' getting turned back by an uncrossable 'shrund (though not till after both nick and i had tried n' failed, n' nastia had plunged into the abysss while i had her on a shoulder belay :) )

Totally forgot about this one. My first alpine fall, kind of embarrassing. I was naively hoping that the overhanging slush would withstand my efforts of pounding a Spectre in the small ice patch I found in that shrund but in vain :grin:

 

 

 

My 2012 highlight was a 2000' "descent" of the Willis Wall :), surviving its famous rock fall, plunging into its shrund and busting my ankle. Highly not recommended.

 

Getting stuck between ice walls in the middle of the Coe's Gl. Icefall in October, 1 bivy on the ice ledge and 20 V-threaded raps. Beautiful route, but so terminally freaky, like Baltoro on K2:

8064620856_0943651c94_c.jpg

 

On the "approach":

8064647871_f2b49158f4_c.jpg

 

Bivvy on Coe:

[video:vimeo]50950067

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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if oleg n' nastia had a ruble for every time they had a misery-bivy on hood.... :grin:

 

 

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I get to post 7

 

1. Impaling my leg on a ledge fall in the Black Canyon and having to climb out while bleeding heavily into my shoes and avoiding the leaky poop bag hit the leg vagina.

2. 80' 5.10 off route run-out with no gear and subsequent hyperventilating on the down climb back to ledge with the world's shittiest anchor in the Black Canyon (different trip)

3. Trip ending food poisoning in Yosemite and Sedona (separate trips)

4. Rockfall to my jaw and good shoulder in Blodgett canyon by two newbie climbers ending my trip and climbing for a few weeks

5. Separated rib when foothold broke and I caught my fall in Zion

6. Low back sprain on the nose (from a horrid bivy) resulting in 2nd bailure

7. results of 1-6: shitty lead head resulting in giving up leads or bailing on several routes I now gotta go back for

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Every time I hear somebody say "alpine fall" my nads recede nearly into my abdomen.

 

And everytime somebody says "retreat off Willis Wall", they (gonads) are in my esophagus. You could name any child "hanging glacier" or "sirac" and be more creative than the sports stars.

 

 

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Every time I hear somebody say "alpine fall" my nads recede nearly into my abdomen.

 

And everytime somebody says "retreat off Willis Wall", they (gonads) are in my esophagus. You could name any child "hanging glacier" or "sirac" and be more creative than the sports stars.

 

 

Yes, but Nastia is Russian, and tough as nails.

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And let's remind ourselves of the bottom five for nonclimbers associated with climbers:

 

1) What is good is to distance yourself from a climber or remove him/her from the sport and learn to watch mindless TV from the the couch.

 

2) Belaying an "expert" because they want you to be a belay slave but certainly must be excellent at it or hissed at even if you don't care.

 

3) Going on a climbing trip when you couldn't care less but it takes days and days and weeks sometimes and you don't get it.

 

4) A bivy can be a fine thing.

 

5) Happy 2013 to all and I hope for good climbing in 2013 and beyond. It's not MMA but nearly.

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Every time I hear somebody say "alpine fall" my nads recede nearly into my abdomen.

 

And everytime somebody says "retreat off Willis Wall", they (gonads) are in my esophagus. You could name any child "hanging glacier" or "sirac" and be more creative than the sports stars.

 

 

 

Yes, but Nastia is Russian, and tough as nails.

 

No offense intended, only respect. I read "One Day In The Life of Ivan Denisovich". I can only assume not our Ivan.

Edited by matt_warfield

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And let's remind ourselves of the bottom five for nonclimbers associated with climbers:

 

1) What is good is to distance yourself from a climber or remove him/her from the sport and learn to watch mindless TV from the the couch.

 

2) Belaying an "expert" because they want you to be a belay slave but certainly must be excellent at it or hissed at even if you don't care.

 

3) Going on a climbing trip when you couldn't care less but it takes days and days and weeks sometimes and you don't get it.

 

4) A bivy can be a fine thing.

 

5) Happy 2013 to all and I hope for good climbing in 2013 and beyond. It's not MMA but nearly.

 

 

 

Are you high? Why can I not understand what the hell you are trying to say?

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And let's remind ourselves of the bottom five for nonclimbers associated with climbers:

 

 

1) What is good is to distance yourself from a climber or remove him/her from the sport and learn to watch mindless TV from the the couch.

 

2) Belaying an "expert" because they want you to be a belay slave but certainly must be excellent at it or hissed at even if you don't care.

 

3) Going on a climbing trip when you couldn't care less but it takes days and days and weeks sometimes and you don't get it.

 

4) A bivy can be a fine thing.

 

5) Happy 2013 to all and I hope for good climbing in 2013 and beyond. It's not MMA but nearly.

 

Let me repost again for those not so jolly:

 

1. Some climbers don't like

 

 

 

Are you high? Why can I not understand what the hell you are trying to say?

 

I will explain in a non entertainment mode and hope it meets your approval cuz I've only climbed for 40 yrs.

 

1) I do not like to be around people that are not safe and don't want to be told how to become safe.

2) If you are a beginner trying to belay a person trying to send 5.13 you will get schooled.

3) Epics or or big trips are not for the unexperienced, even if you are hot on them.

4) Bivys and especially unplanned ones are not for everyone.

5) Happy New Year anyway

 

And I am not high, just knowledgable, but thanks for the inquiry.

Edited by matt_warfield

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