B Deleted_Beck Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 I know weather looks shittay, but I think it'll be OK for the routes I'm looking to do. Reid Glacier Headwall, full headwall version, is first choice, Devils Kitchen Headwall as consession if conditions keep us from getting over there. Will be very cold and windy, but wind will be straight out of the west, after blowing hard out of the southwest for the last week. Soong as we stay off north and east aspects, I think snow will be bomber all the way up and down. If you have never climbed with a stiff wind in your back, it's actually pretty pleasant- almost feels like it takes 10lbs off your back. If not, we fight up into the crater and knock out DKH, full headwall variation.. Will be completely windless once inside the couloir, and should be great ice all the way up. I'd prefer to simul-solo as much as possible, up to all of it, but I can bring a Serenity and a handful of screws if you'd rather belay through the steps. But please at least be comfortable (or just willing!) to simul-solo 95% of he climb. Shoot me a text! 5037070145 -Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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