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Lane peak?


yellowlab03

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I did the Zipper last weekend. Conditions could be described as early season, but it's in. Especially if you like squirming behind chockstones. Do it now before it gets less fun (ie. easier)! Well, maybe not right this moment, since it is nighttime and the Longmire gate is closed and the snow stability may not be conducive to climbing a wind loaded terrain trap.

 

More details than you need:

 

There were more than average bushes, rocks, and stream crossings on the approach. I "discovered" a stream crossing technique that uses snowshoes to take advantage of excessive bushes.

 

On the route, we were expecting (hoping for?) two ice and/or steep snow steps -- instead we found three rock/mixed (ie mixed w/ the usual hollow ice, powder snow, dirt, plants, etc) steps. We roped up for the third one, which was probably not necessary, but I found a little chockstone chimney in the back of a cave that I had to squeeze through. No way would I have fit through with a pack with snowshoes strapped to it, so I needed to drag the rope up to haul with anyway, then it turned out the snow above could take pickets with a bit of stomping, so I built an anchor to haul the packs and belay my partner up the outside of the chockstone (figuring that trying to pull packs and snowshoes through the hole was just asking for trouble, and not having enough rope to finagle a way to haul on the outside and also allow my partner to enjoy the squeeze).

 

Most of the route was pretty much plowing heavy powder. Most of it was knee deep except for the last 50 feet or so at the top where it was above my head. You most likely are taller than me so YMMV.

 

Oh, and lest I forget the descent, we found more open creeks than expected coming down from the Denman/Lane saddle so we got extra fun on the way down too (or maybe we just went the wrong way).

 

Some photos:

 

I unfortunately did not get a picture of the awesome squeeze hole because I did not have room to get a camera out of my pocket but it probably looked kind of like this:

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