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Alex

2012 / 13 Washington Ice Conditions

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Fun day out Dave! For those wondering, here's what Hubba Hubba looked like...

 

Pitch 1:

IMG_22672.JPG

Left of Hubba Hubba P1:

 

IMG_22831.JPG

Left of Hubba Hubba P2:

IMG_2287.JPG

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FA: Slide Alder Slayer - WI3, 35m

 

Today we made what we believe to be the FA of "Slide Alder Slayer" up the Entiat Valley. The climb is visible from the road at mile post 19 across the river on the other side of the valley. Park at mile post 19 and cross the river on ice. Initially, Lots of brush made the approach a royal pain in the #$#. But there is a nice boot track now. We rappelled with (1) 70m rope and there was nothing to spare.

 

DSCN0999.JPG

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Update from our Columbia Basin tour on Sunday

 

Fugs Falls - "formed"/building, but very thin, it needs to be colder. Probably best to TR it if you go.

Frenchman - not in.

Soap Lake stuff incl beer climbs - It was cold enough but it's been too dry. None of that stuff is even remotely worthwhile.

Champagne - Anemic, the upper 15 m of the first pitch has no ice, so TR only.

Scotch - No.

Clockwork Orange - The bottom pitch is in and makes a potentially safer practice area than Punchbowl. Middle pitch is about 6 feet from touching down, and will touch down in the coming week. Upper pitch is in, but very thin first 10m.

Cowgirls - No.

Absent Minded Prof - No, very dry.

Cable - It's there, to the ground, mostly icicles, TR only?

H202 - Mean shape, very thin, but touching down.

Salt and Pepper - In. The mixed pitch to get to the ice is not for the faint hearted.

Emerald - Don't know.

Shitting Razorblades - In, it received it's second ascent in the past week.

Zenith - Not even close, it's too dry.

Pee Wees - a few climbable lines.

Punchbowl - In with deathcicles present.

 

Seeing all this stuff, I'd say it's a pretty bad year for the desert, looks like it's generally been too dry and a couple degrees too warm.

 

Happy hunting!

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Thank you, Alex, really appreciated!

 

Is the mixed portion for Salt&Pepper any different from the past?

Edited by Rafael_H

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No, but there is a little less ice compared to the last time we climbed it. For you if youre leafing strong you should go do Shitting Razorblades

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Leafing? Ha-ha! It is just the opposite, my dear! But yes, would love to climb the Razorblades, looks too hard to solo though...

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Anyone taken a look at alpental ice? (Not Chair, but Rap Wall, the waterfall near Edelweiss, etc.)

 

(Gonna assume that the inversion killed everything because there have been no responses....)

Edited by CaleHoopes

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Haireball's Ass Clammin' News:

 

 

Tumwater Canyon:

Big News is that the Drip is in. Lookin' fierce, as usual. base cone is about half of climb, but top curtain/pillar only just connects.

The Pencil's first pitch has fallen - victim of the same thermal inversion that brought in the Drip.

Drury is complete, but quite lean in places.

Comic Book Hero, Plastic Fantastic Lover, the Penstock, and additional undocumented ice, are fat opposite Castlerock.

The Smear, Silver Tongue, and Fawn Gully all look good at the mouth of the Canyon

Scrappy fragments of ice above Hobo Gulch. a wandering line far right (downstream)Dos Hobos is very forgiving classic mixed.

 

Icicle Canyon: 1) acquire a map of the road 2) close your eyes and make a pencil mark 3) drive to the point marked 4) look uphill, and climb whatever ice you see. yup - ice everywhere... even the ice you can't see easily from the road -- park as for the Refrigerator Boulder - walk uphill upstream of the boulder & discover Entrance Exam. Or brave the crossing to Dog Dome for the most concentrated collection of steep & mixed problems in the canyon.

 

Edited by montypiton

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Yesterday we climbed McCrea Creek falls in the Entiat valley as a group of 4, including one 12 y.o.

After obtaining the permission to park in the private driveway (near MP 22) and hike across their property, the approach was chill 10 min.

 

McCrea from the base:

8425553624_b06defafbe_b.jpg

 

One full 60 m pitch:

8424469265_69df58a63c_b.jpg

 

Our 12 y.o. ripping it with Nomics :)

8425562880_2c13886a57_b.jpg

 

Pouring shower midway:

8425563872_baf7134fd3_c.jpg

 

Anita on the topout:

8425569024_ceba593c95_b.jpg

 

Rapped off the bush with pre-existing sling:

8425566778_b3b201d3ea_c.jpg

 

What do ardenvoirs eat?

8425553338_7b853cefc4_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

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that pillar looks like the big brother to Horsetail Falls in the east fork, sorry to say, but I'm actually jealous of you WA climbers right about now.

 

Nice shot of the young one crushing. I went ice climbing when I was about that age and I remember being really sketched out and swearing I'd never ever lead on frozen water. Obviously I gave up on that, I hope they had a better experience!

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twelve is about the right age to start... strong enough to swing a tool, and kid enough to get really excited

 

I remember taking my youngest out at twelve - then couldn't keep up with him -- Gibraltar & Louise Falls at thirteen, leading short WI4s at sixteen...

 

but he's too busy teachin' his girlfriend to climb these days to get out with me any more...

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Ok, folks, lets hope this storm brings some cold behind it, huh?

 

Amen to that!

 

The pickin's have been good lately.

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Haireball's Ass Clammin' News:

 

 

 

The Smear, Silver Tongue, and Fawn Gully all look good at the mouth of the Canyon

 

 

FYI_The access to the smear and anything in that vicinity is not ok. The property owners at the end of the road do not want ANYONE crossing their property

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three access opportunities avoid the property owners' issues:

 

1) paddle across the river from the developed raft launch opposite the Smear.

 

2) walk from the bridge upstream along the river instead of using the access road. the river bank is public access by state law (I'm a riverfront landowner in Leavenworth)

 

3)Fawn Gully and the Smear can be accessed by contouring low on the hillside from the bridge, on public land. Silver Tongue may be accessed from the top of Fawn Gully or the Smear.

Edited by montypiton

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Grim conditions in Leavenworth this morning. We only drove up to Dog Dome but everything looked out. Two days ago Dog Dome was in pretty good shape so the deterioration has been rapid.

 

There was a lot of ice at Banks Lake yesterday and a thick fog bank prevented any sun from hitting the routes. It wasn't particularly cold and I bet most of the routes wouldn't last long if the fog lifted and they saw any direct sunlight.

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Haireball's Ass Clammin News, 1/31

 

Contrary to popular belief, our one night chinook has NOT devastated ice climbing in the Icicle and Tumwater canyons. In fact, if what remains is any indication, it appears aspect/sun has been the bigger factor.

 

Tumwater:

Drury remains complete, probably climbable for the young & dumb crowd

No sign of the Pencil

We've probably seen the last of the Drip - it lasted less than two days

Across from Castlerock, climbs remain reasonably fat, but have been reduced to normal historical dimensions

The Smear remains fat - please avoid using the road approach - contour the hill above the ditch, walk the riverbank past the private property, or paddle across the river at the Smear.

 

Icicle:

Funnel remains fat, now reduced to normal historical dimensions

Some flows remain climbable on the upstream side of Eightmile Butt-rest

Icicle Butt-rest is completely stripped, we've probably seen the last of it for this winter

Dog Dome is reduced, but still presents plenty to do, and the bridge appears to have remained in good shape

Pearly Gates has been reduced from grossly obese to merely normal historical dimensions

Rainbow Gully still has top-outs on some lines

Candlestein Left has survived, but Candlestein Right lost its top-out

Caliente and Black Power are gone

Entrance Exam remains as a mixed problem

 

It froze again last night, and is forecast to cool though the weekend into next week.

 

-Haireball

 

 

 

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I was in the Entiat and Mazama yesterday. The Standard in Mazama was only OK in the morning, but was melting fast. Heard and saw signs of many wet loose slides in the gullies there. Goats Beard was falling down. It was in the 50's there.

 

In the Entiat - Ardenvoirs is open at the top again and melting fast. Tyee Falls was falling down when we stood at the base. Frigus might be ok as it has less of a flow than the other routes. It was in the 40's there or higher.

 

Everything I saw in the Tumwater this morning would be terrifying and unprotectable. ice, yes, but terrifying and protection-less including Drury, which was pouring water. Leavenworth was in the 50's yesterday.

 

Go to the alpine when it freezes again.

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Haireball's Ass Clammin News, 1/31

 

Contrary to popular belief, our one night chinook has NOT devastated ice climbing in the Icicle and Tumwater canyons. In fact, if what remains is any indication, it appears aspect/sun has been the bigger factor.

 

Tumwater:

Drury remains complete, probably climbable for the young & dumb crowd

No sign of the Pencil

We've probably seen the last of the Drip - it lasted less than two days

Across from Castlerock, climbs remain reasonably fat, but have been reduced to normal historical dimensions

The Smear remains fat - please avoid using the road approach - contour the hill above the ditch, walk the riverbank past the private property, or paddle across the river at the Smear.

 

Icicle:

Funnel remains fat, now reduced to normal historical dimensions

Some flows remain climbable on the upstream side of Eightmile Butt-rest

Icicle Butt-rest is completely stripped, we've probably seen the last of it for this winter

Dog Dome is reduced, but still presents plenty to do, and the bridge appears to have remained in good shape

Pearly Gates has been reduced from grossly obese to merely normal historical dimensions

Rainbow Gully still has top-outs on some lines

Candlestein Left has survived, but Candlestein Right lost its top-out

Caliente and Black Power are gone

Entrance Exam remains as a mixed problem

 

It froze again last night, and is forecast to cool though the weekend into next week.

 

-Haireball

 

 

 

I'm not one much for posting, but i have to call BS on this post. I also live in Leavenworth and have been out climbing ice regularly this season in both canyons. I watched a few thousand pounds of ice and snow come down over Pearly slabs (which are not in "normal historic dimensions" as of 3pm today) while i was climbing rock in the sun today at around 1:30pm. A fat, 140 foot pitch of ice that a partner and i climbed on sunday in the Icicle above 8mile rock is almost completely gone. You would be a fool to get on the Funnel or Drury right now. Montypiton, did you climb any of the routes that are 'merely in historic dimensions' today?

It is access to the Smear that prompted me to respond, as it is the most important false statement in this post. For years, i have had discussions with people regarding how to approach the Smear, and none of us seems to really know the property issues, it's all just rumors and speculation. At this point, it seems to be pretty common knowledge among the climbing community in Leavenworth and the greater Wenatchee River valley that the property owners along Canal Rd DO NOT want people crossing their property, which extends across the road, increasing in elevation as you approach the climb and reach the roads end. The confusion seems to lie in where the Okanogan Wenatchee National Forest boundary lies and what is private property, or not. I decided to spend some time to try and talk to some people and get some concrete answers.

The obvious first step was to look at quadrangles and maps online. The best i found were on

http://www.fs.fed.us/locatormap/ and

http://www.co.chelan.wa.us/assessor/

I then contacted a Ranger at the Wenatchee River Ranger District (509-548-2550) here in town, but he really couldn't help me and directed me to the Okanogan Wenatchee National Forest headquarters(509-664-9200). I then spoke with Carol, who was quite sure that the boundaries were accurate on the maps that i was looking at. To be sure, she then referred me to the OWNF Land Zone Team Leader, Scott Lynn. My call went to voicemail and Scott called me back within 30 minutes. We discussed the location of the climb, which he was familiar with, and talked about different maps and where they specifically denote National Forest. Again, he was confident, but not definitive and said he thought it was owned by the county PUD. He said he would look into it and shoot me an email. It is worth noting that at this point there was no confusion as to whether or not the CLIMB ITSELF lands on private property...it does. 15 minutes later, i have a satellite pic with property boundary overlay, including the name of the property owners that OWN THE SMEAR. The national Forest boundary doesn't start for at least 400 vertical feet above the Wenatchee River. The overlay also marks other private plots that would require trespass even from the red bridge, which, by the way, would be a miserable approach (next time you drive out of town,take a look). In other words, you can look at it from your boat in the river but the second you step above the high water mark (public easement) you are trespassing. I'm not posting this in an attempt to tell anyone what to do, I'm just trying to arm people with factual information before they make a decision for themselves. Go poach it if you desire, just remember that you are a spectacle to every person driving on one of the busiest roads in the state, on a climb that is a sharp point of contention with more than one land owner that lives very close to the climb. You just might make us all look like fools...

 

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Haireball's Ass Clammin News, 1/31

 

Drury remains complete, probably climbable for the young & dumb crowd

I really appreciate these updates, mostly, but I gotta add another comment to the latest condition report - regarding posting about Drury conditions based on drive-bys that has always bothered me. Every time I read "Drury looking fat," "Drury complete now except one hole," etc., I cringe. From early December on, it ALWAYS looks like there is some form of frozen H20 up there. But, as someone that has hiked up to it twice can attest, what looks like ice from 3000' below is usually just slush with water pouring down. During the whole extended inversion period, the top of Drury never went below 40F and was baking in morning sun despite what was happening in the Icicle. I realize that the "young and dumb crowd" comment could be viewed as cautionary enough but I really think conditions on Drury should only be reported by someone who actually got on it.

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Haireball's Ass Clammin News, 1/31

 

Contrary to popular belief, our one night chinook has NOT devastated ice climbing in the Icicle and Tumwater canyons. In fact, if what remains is any indication, it appears aspect/sun has been the bigger factor.

 

Tumwater:

Drury remains complete, probably climbable for the young & dumb crowd

No sign of the Pencil

We've probably seen the last of the Drip - it lasted less than two days

Across from Castlerock, climbs remain reasonably fat, but have been reduced to normal historical dimensions

The Smear remains fat - please avoid using the road approach - contour the hill above the ditch, walk the riverbank past the private property, or paddle across the river at the Smear.

 

Icicle:

Funnel remains fat, now reduced to normal historical dimensions

Some flows remain climbable on the upstream side of Eightmile Butt-rest

Icicle Butt-rest is completely stripped, we've probably seen the last of it for this winter

Dog Dome is reduced, but still presents plenty to do, and the bridge appears to have remained in good shape

Pearly Gates has been reduced from grossly obese to merely normal historical dimensions

Rainbow Gully still has top-outs on some lines

Candlestein Left has survived, but Candlestein Right lost its top-out

Caliente and Black Power are gone

Entrance Exam remains as a mixed problem

 

It froze again last night, and is forecast to cool though the weekend into next week.

 

-Haireball

 

 

 

while i was climbing rock in the sun today

 

 

Sweet! Which crag were climbing? Sorry, not trying to derail your post... I'm over winter and ust looking forward to warm granite.

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