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[TR] Spring Mountain - Cloven Roof- Hoof Direct 11/10/2012

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Trip: Spring Mountain - Cloven Roof- Hoof Direct


Date: 11/10/2012


Trip Report:

Cloven Roof- Hoof Direct, A2/3 sustained, 22m.

FA- D. Coltrane & M. Hanna 11-10-2012


So a sweet little possibility that has been on my mind for a while is the Cloven Roof out at Spring Mt. (Along Mt. Loop Highway) It has always looked to me like the crack spliting the face would go clean. This last weekend Hanman and I went up with a load of gear to see how it would go.



Looking up at the roof- You can see Mark at the top of Straight Creek Boogie. The route is the prominent crack starting out from the bush. I would say the angle of the roof is about 45-60 degrees over vertical.


To get up to the roof you have to climb the wonderfully wet slab route Straight Creek Boogie. A couple of stick clips and some fancy foot work slowely got us to the base of the roof to contemplate the task at hand. Unfortunatly it is hard to see from the belay stance so the only way to see what was really going on was to get out on it. I started out loaded for bear, double sets of cams, double sets of nuts, ball nuts, LA's, KB's, angles, everything but copper heads, which I am sure would do little in this crack.



Getting started



First few cams were pretty good, not too much ground fall potential.


The crack starts out pretty wide, then narrows as it becomes a weathered vein with remenants of highly crystallized, and somewhat flexing quartz within the crack, petering down to thin seams in strong but seamingly broken rock.



The weather for the day started out spectacular, great views up the North Fork of the Sauk, and the sun peaking through the clouds illuminating the south facing wall we resided on. While we geared up at the base bits of ice were being tossed over the roof onto us as they melted in the warming morning. Eventually though storms began to gather in the east and start to move west into the valley, a little opposite of what usually happens around here.



As I continued out 5, then 6, then 7 pieces I knew I was commited and was thniking there was a good chance it could go clean. I eyed the crack further on and could see one section with loose looking blocks and one where the crack definetly petered out.



I made my way up slowely, cleaning bits of plant and loose rock along the way. Testing suspicious looking flakes.



At this point I was about half way through and feeling pretty good with a least a few good pieces along the way. About then it started snowing pretty hard, fortunatly we were under a HUGE ROOF.



The furhter along I went the more likely it seemed that it would go clean. As I approached a particularly blank section of rock I felt fortunate to have at least one good cam out of the last few pieces. I moved through on a #2 ball nut behind a small flake, and two micro cams placed barely head deep. The second on only two lobes. Each of these placements made moving up as high as possible particularly scary as I was exerting full force on the cams.

By now I had all but given up on nut placements since the only one I placed ripped off a chunk of rock inciting a short daisy fall on a #3 ball nut.



As I approached the lip of the roof I really began to notice the exposure. By now I was at least 50 feet of the deck below me and I could see the snow swirling in from above the roof. It was almost certain at this point I could get it to go clean, but as I approached the lip the rock quality began to drop dramatically, what looked decent from below became an overly flaring hand sized crack with kitty litter texture and only small incempent seams. I made one last move onto a purple master cam set deep into the flare in a small seam behind a contriction. My gear was depleted and I had about 2 small cams and a ball nut left. As I searched the last bit of crack before the lip I was greeted with a crunching sound as the master cam slipped and two out of three lobes popped open, It was now nothing more then a very weak passive piece, and my heart was racing. I quickly gave up on my search for more good clean pro and pounded a small #2 KB into the seam, greatful for the resounding echo of a solid pin. I Made one last move to turn the roof only to find a blank ledge, snow in the face and a lot of moss. I decided not to turn the roof, but instead but a two bolt anchor just below the lip and will save the next pitch for another day, but this pitch is now setup for a perfect rainy day roof climb, and the bolts were placed about at the same spot as the pin, so it could easily go clean now at C2/3.



There is alot of potential in this state for those who are willing to take a few steps off the beaten path.


Gear Notes:

Double to triple cams through #2 camalot with 2 #3's. Ball nuts are crucial for the thin seams, leave the nuts at home.

Aliens were good wish I had more than 1, offset cams were used but only because I had used everything else.


Approach Notes:

Head up to Spring via FS 49 2.2 miles in take the abandoned road heading north and head toward the rock, bring a weed whacker and a rake will you're at it.

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Way to go D!

Kudos to you and Hanman for heading out there and giving it a go.


"There is alot of potential in this state for those who are willing to take a few steps off the beaten path."

Too true my friend!



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Wow, strong work! I've only been to Spring Mtn. once, but that roof left an indelible impression on me. Glad to hear that someone finally cast off above the slab to find out what was above.


Now, I wonder what it would go free at?

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Awesome effort Danny. I have been up there many times with a giant pin rack,lots of excuses, and tiny balls (ballnutz jeez;), it's simply amazing that it is hammerless. Great work!


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I led this beauty last weekend. A bit "puckery" for my ample frame, but nothing blew. The exposure and feeling of committment is simply incredible with 200 feet of slab diverging away below at roughly the same angle. Adjustable daisy's and makeshift chest harness was very helpful. Thanks for your vision and perseverance Danny- it's a great addition to the area!!





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