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caleb ng

[TR] Mamie Peak - Ellation 9/3/2012

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Trip: Mamie Peak - Ellation


Date: 9/3/2012


Trip Report:

Hey! That was totally fun and always interesting. Needs some more traffic still to get rid of the inherent grittiness of a new climb. But who would've thought that I'd go south-east towards Baker to find a granite climb than North to Squamish? Is there anything else in that corridor? Hmmm.


Some hollow sounding flakes that apparently aren't going anywhere. Some hollow sounding chunks that apparently were going somewhere whereby we dutifully tossed them to the valley floor.


The bolting was well done whereas I felt that no whipper would've been traumatic, yet bolted far enough that my idea of a Diedre-like jaunt up a cliff was an underestimation. Well done to the FA's!

Don't fret about the 5.11 rating as the free move was just that, one free move of 5.11 that was short & painless. One should be more concerned about whether your Slab-work software is up to date. There was some trickery, and some foolery too.


Approach Notes? Go towards the big boulder and do not follow the creek up too far until the end. We did this and had to bushwhack our way into find the trail. We easily found the trail on the way out, but would've been hard on the way in as it is all overgrown now!


I ask people I run into from Bellingham if they know of this climb and always I have been met with blank stares. Hopefully through time more people will find their way to this funny climb in a pristine wilderness!


3 pictures..

http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/2012/09/03/mamie-peak-ellation-wa-5-11/ http://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/2012/09/03/mamie-peak-ellation-wa-5-11/

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Blake had a write up of that route in rock and ice, I believe. Something like favorite unknown routes or something.


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