satori Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Last weekend I had the pleasure of placing DMM offset stoppers. I have never touched an offset piece of pro before. I went home and ordered the #7-#9 pieces. Other than what I can read in a book, any comments, tips or suggestions when using these pieces of pro in free climbing application only? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 no different free vs aid - they love pin scars but generally are just as good, if not better, than standard nuts in all spots - expensive, but they're all i use now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satori Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 I can see why that is all you use. I should articulated my intent better: I was referring to the alloy series sizes rather than the super micro brass offset types (say 2-5 kN rating) used more frequently for aid (although I'm sure some use these pieces for free applications). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 all i use too (set of brass and aluminum). put them in cracks and clip em. free and aid are placed the same way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satori Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 What's is the greatest fall you have taken on a brass offset without it failing? What size and what kind of rock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 What's is the greatest fall you have taken on a brass offset without it failing? What size and what kind of rock? as in tony the tiger "great" or like the longest fall kinda "great" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 What's is the greatest fall you have taken on a brass offset without it failing? What size and what kind of rock? dunnon - but i did fall on a 5 kn one, shockloading it w/ my daisy, and it failed big time, blowing out the cable at the head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I left a #2 behind as pro while I camhooked up a crack for several moves, felt warm and fuzzy inside, but I never fell. They rock. If you can find 'em on sale for 30% off buy a set or five. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 no different free vs aid - they love pin scars but generally are just as good, if not better, than standard nuts in all spots - expensive, but they're all i use now. once I bought some I never went back. A full set of alloy's and the larger brass ones are permanent pieces on my rack now with the regular DMM walnuts filling in any gaps. They are da bomb! And the DMM walnuts are the 2nd best nut on the market next to the DMM alloy offsets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satori Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 Which brass offset sizes do you normally carry selkirk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 #4-#6 are adequate 99% of the time. #2 and #3 can be handy on Zion aid routes. #0 and #1 are pretty much pointless. I would recommend DMM Peanuts over DMM Brass Offsets particularly if you climb on granite more than desert sandstone. Very similar but better in every respect with the exception of a very specific type of pin scar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I use #2 and #3 while free climbing on basalt and granite. If the placement is good then 6 kN seems like plenty of strength to me. The #3 has definitely caught falls. I regularly carry #2 brass through #9 or 10 offset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 always have #2-#6 brass and once I was turned on to the larger aluminum sizes, I now also always carry #7=#10 I also bring along some smaller peenuts and superlight rocks as doubles if I'm climbing long thin pitches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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