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[TR] - Cascades Various 10/19/2012


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Trip: Stuart Range, Ingalls Peak, Mt, Baring - Various

 

Date: 10/19/2012

 

Trip Report:

With the alpine rock season slowly winding down to an end for the Cascades, I am finding myself reflecting on all the amazing memories shared with amazing people.

 

Thank you to everyone who roped up with me this year and brought the stoke. I am blessed to have such experienced climbers taking me along with them and showing me the way of the "new school washington climbers."

 

My passion for the mountains drew me back often two or more times a week to find what ever it is that we are all looking for. Alpinists search for that something as they travel up into the highest parts of our world; in a way they are searching for the deepest parts of themselves.

 

After the photos I'm going to include a list of my 2012 summer ascents.

 

Here are a few pictures of me and my friends enjoying a life of reverie.

 

 

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West Face of Mt. Stuart.

 

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Grant on GITM

 

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What a life we live

 

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Madeline below N Ingalls

 

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Lady M cruising South Ridge of North Ingalls Peak

 

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Me on N. Ingalls with Mount Stuart in the back ground

 

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Eric's way of dealing with the #6 on Backbone Ridge on Dragontail Peak

 

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A very messed up photo of Eric on the Fin of Dragontail

 

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Strolling by the Enchantment basin after Backbone Ridge

 

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Jens Holsten starting the Vanishing Point. Full write up here http://jensholsten.blogspot.com/

 

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Its been a wild day belaying Jens on VP

 

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Cuttrought peak in the Fall during a solo assault on the area

 

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Winespires up top and Le Petit Chevil on the left of the lower formation

 

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Looking back down the S. Arete of SEWS

 

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Me having to much fun on the W. Face of NEWS

 

 

This is not in chronological order but i think this all of them. I included Snow Creek Wall routes as well.

 

Prusik Peak: West Ridge (twice), Burgner/Stanley, Der Sportsman (4/6 pitches)

Colchuck Area: North Buttress Couloir (solo C2C 6 hours), Acid Baby, The Valkyre (3rd ascent)

Mount Stuart: Gorillas In The Mist, Upper North Ridge, Girth Pillar (by way of Lower North Ridge, I was the belayer), Gorillas In The Mist (first one day ascent to the summit)

Colchuck Balanced Rock: West Face (twice), Nectar

Dragontail Peak: Backbone Ridge With Fin Direct

Rat Creek Group: North Face of The Mole

Snow Creek Wall: Orbit, Outer Space, Mary Jane Dihedral, Champagne, Iconoclast-Psycopath- Edge of space.

Ingalls Peak: South Ridge of North Ingalls Peak

Liberty Bell: Becky Route

South Early Winters Spire: Direct East Buttress, South Arete (solo linked with LPC in a day)

North Early Winters Spire: West Face

Le Petit Cheval: Spontaneity Arete (onsight solo linked with SEWS in a day)

Mount Buckner: South East Ridge

Johannesburg Mountain: North East Rib (C2C)

Mount Baring: Vanishing Point (I was the belayer)

Guye Peak: Improbable Traverse (linked with The Tooth in a day)

The Tooth: South Face (linked with Guye Peak in a day)

Pingora: South East Buttress-K Cracks, North East Face

Hay Stack: Minor Dihedral

 

 

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I am also impressed and inspired.

 

What stands out to me is Edge of Space. Doesn't get done much. Did it need scrubbing first?

 

Plus the big cam for Backbone brings back fond memories. Walk it up there and then walk it up the crack and walk all the way to the top and back down. These experiences are priceless.

Edited by matt_warfield
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Oh Yeah! SOLID WORK HOMIE.

 

Edge of Space is one of the best routes in Ltown. Yes, it's scary, yes it's safe. Clean enough, it saw at least 3 ascents this year. Wait for cold, dry conditions (I climbed the crux pitch in the rain, oh god).

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Shaun,

Wow Bro, what an alpine summer season it's been. You're outta control; can't stop, won't stop! "Monkey Call"! I stand both inspired and impressed. You should be asking yourself what you're going to do once you've blown through the select guides???

 

Thanks for everything SJ, looking forward to many more climbs with you.

 

 

Edited by Eric T
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Chestbeat:

 

The climber pictured on the N. Ridge of Stuart in Nelson's Vol. 1 is me.

 

Non Chestbeat:

 

I have not and never will do Edge of Space. I have admired it from Outer Space many times and congrats to those that have climbed it. I always imagined falling off the Edge (literally) and having an epic.

 

Somewhere in the mid 10 range or where there are big runouts slab ceases to amuse me.

Edited by matt_warfield
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I have not and never will do Edge of Space. I have admired it from Outer Space many times and congrats to those that have climbed it. I always imagined falling off the Edge (literally) and having an epic.

 

I took about a 15 footer off the crux of Edge of Space in the rain. I went flying towards the edge sure that I was going to fly over it and the rope was going to cut on the edge and I would fall 300 ft to the base. I screamed like a girl. I was fine, totally safe falls on EoS. Lots of folks could get up this one no problem.

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I have not and never will do Edge of Space. I have admired it from Outer Space many times and congrats to those that have climbed it. I always imagined falling off the Edge (literally) and having an epic.

 

I took about a 15 footer off the crux of Edge of Space in the rain. I went flying towards the edge sure that I was going to fly over it and the rope was going to cut on the edge and I would fall 300 ft to the base. I screamed like a girl. I was fine, totally safe falls on EoS. Lots of folks could get up this one no problem.

 

That's good to know. While OS gets 3 ascents every half day or so EoS gets 3 a year.

Edited by matt_warfield
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I second, "do you have a job?" :)

impressive list of what must have been a great season.

I like your "onsight solo" on spontaneity. Can you red point a solo? ;)

 

I work odds and end jobs, usually under the table. It gets me by; I believe that wealth is to be measured by experience and compassion opposed to dollar value.

 

And for the "onisight solo" I seriously looked on Supertopo, found a 5.7 and decided to solo it. Thats about as much of an onsight as there is. It was super dooper fun none the less. Then after spontaneity I climbed S. Arete of SEWS, which i have downclimbed before.

 

Just one of the many grey areas in climbing.

 

After all, Who's Countin' on the mountain?

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