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bugaboos [TR] Bugaboo's Canadia - Various 9/27/2012

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Trip: Bugaboo's Canadia - Various


Date: 9/27/2012


Trip Report:

Late Summer Bugaboo Trip


Two of my buddies and I recently took a few days to drive into the land up North. Driving nearly nonstop to check out the granite that we gawk at, on our yearly pilgrimage to Banff. The several year long wait did not disappoint! We loaded the Suby with enough shit to last us until the North Korean invasion and set forth, our only objective being to have a good time. Made the drive in roughly eleven hours from Olympia/South Tacoma, pulling in the porcupine herding corrals around 4, took off for the hut and made it in around two hours. By the time we arrived at the hut the light was diminishing, but we pressed on to the "Rock" to a night of lovely slumber.


We awake at a leisurely time to leaf thru the guide book and decide the trip for the day, Bugaboo it is! Via the Kain route we ascend after an insignificant approach. The route proves to be a complete joy with tons of very enjoyable scrambling and fairly easy low five moves. We rope up for the Gendarme' due to its very "airy" nature and rap off after enjoying the incredible views.



The next day is equally beautiful and we shoot for Pigeon Spire. The col on the approach has iced over considerably and front pointing ensues with chilly hands on dirty snice. Pulling up and onto the glacier is unbelievable with nearly endless views of the Howser Towers and on. Before we know it we have arrived at the base of the classic ridge and lay in the sun for a bit to give a party in front of us time to get up a bit higher. As expected the views are unreal, with an exposure that adds to the experience. The granite is superb, much like the previous day! We top out with another party and a solo dude, to share the summit with prior to two short raps to retreat back to the decent. Even the down climbing ends up being enjoyable, we find ourselves grinning the entire time.


Two double length raps aid us down the icy col and over the 'shrund after waiting out a party that was less than confident with their footwork in running shoes. We arrive back in the Taj' with enough time to hang with our very cool neighbors whom are kind enough to share their bottle of twelve year scotch with us over some good conversation.

The morning arrives with another unbelievable sunrise and the decision is made to head up to snag the McTech Arête'. The rumor of weather from our friendly hut attendant back down the trail leads us to choose this route after our original plans of the North/East ridge of Bugaboo.



The route is quite enjoyable, with amazing territorial views down the valley and into the Bugg's. Five pitches put us on top, after forgoing the final scramble to the true summit due to fading light.

A few nervous moments of not easily being able to find the second station and having to pull a "cliffhanger" move to reach the third, ends up slowing our decent to the rubble below the route. More whiskey (this time our own, but certainly not enough) greets us at our stupendous campsite. We close the night down listening to music and bullshitting about the amazing place we are lucky enough to be in.

We were rustled awake early the next morning with a steadily increasing breeze and a drizzle of rain. We slam down some grub, packed the gear and have just shouldered our packs when the HAMMMER of THOR' comes crashing down. RAIN, Massive lightning strikes onto the spires, and eventually hail chased us out and back to the car.

We end up snagging some burgers and pints in Radium with minor flooding wreaking havoc in the streets.

With a few more days to kill we ended up driving to Vantage, sleeping at the Feathers trailhead only to be rocked in the middle of the night by multiple gunshots less than 30 meters from our car. That morning, after some Jet Boil Via, we set out looking for a body with no such luck. We don't know the story behind it, but it certainly scared the shit out of us!

Plans were made over coffee, and then some more coffee and yet again another cup of coffee in E-burg to hit the NR of Stuart. Although the stoke had fizzled after it was confirmed how un-God-lee smokey it was over the pass. We were in good spirits, choosing to end the trip on a highpoint. Overall the Bugaboos were incredible, easily making for the most enjoyable trip of my life. Good friends, good climbing, good times!

When January roles around and we do our annual ice trip to Canmore, I'll surely look over and see those beauties calling for next summer.

(I must say that I am a little embarrassed, as this is my first trip report. I have been greedily stealing information and gawking over pictures for as long as I have been climbing, but have never considered posting. Hopefully it doesn’t suck!)





Gear Notes:

Standard rock rack, took a number four up the McTech which was very nice on the second roof. More booze and less food.


Approach Notes:

Flat...than, not so much. Good Peekaboo views, with larch trees and hucklberries dotting the way above treeline.2251.JPG2551.JPG256.JPG2571.JPG264.JPG287.JPG3171.JPG340.JPG1281.JPG

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It didn't suck...far from it! Loved the pictures. Thanks for sharing such a cool place and your adventures there.

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One thing about this site is that some posts and TRs suck and many are excellent. But the site wouldn't exist if nobody shared. Your TR is excellent and the Bugs are awesome.

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