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OlegV

TFT in winter

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...talked to Colin Haley and his bro. they say, it hasn't been done in winter. I think the TFT can be esier in winter than in summer because the snow level is high. can be done in a mountanering style. any thoughts?

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hard to imagine snow and ice doing anything to torment other than improving it :)

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...talked to Colin Haley and his bro. they say, it hasn't been done in winter. I think the TFT can be esier in winter than in summer because the snow level is high. can be done in a mountanering style. any thoughts?

 

Approach via torment basin or Roush Basin (eldo) and do a high traverse. You could at least bag torment and evaluate from there. Go for it, Oleg! :-)

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hard to imagine snow and ice doing anything to torment other than improving it :)

Seriously! I was just up there this weekend and Torment's a pile...I'd rather wallow in powder than sketch on loose 3rd/4th

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Approach via torment basin or Roush Basin (eldo) and do a high traverse. You could at least bag torment and evaluate from there. Go for it, Oleg! :-)

 

Why to wallow TFT, if there is Yocum Ridge? :rolleyes:

Close to home too.

 

112031.jpg

 

 

 

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Approach via torment basin or Roush Basin (eldo) and do a high traverse. You could at least bag torment and evaluate from there. Go for it, Oleg! :-)

 

Why to wallow TFT, if there is Yocum Ridge? :rolleyes:

Close to home too.

 

112031.jpg

 

 

 

Who said it was either-or? :rolleyes:

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Seriously! I was just up there this weekend and Torment's a pile...

 

Isn't that the definition of Cascades alpine? And Torments' not really that bad, just compare it to JBerg right across the valley.

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Looking at the W Ridge of Eldo from Marble Cirque in winter, it sure looks like a lot more of a worthy objective than TFT. Though, I think it has been done in winter before. Probly by Kit Lewis but I'm not sure.

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... maybe we should ask Colin Haley and his bro for their opinion though before moving forward.

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Seriously! I was just up there this weekend and Torment's a pile...

 

Isn't that the definition of Cascades alpine? And Torments' not really that bad, just compare it to JBerg right across the valley.

 

Guess so...at least it's not vertical vegetation. Either way snow and ice would only improve things...

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This is what you'd be looking at:

 

P1010226_resize.JPG.

 

Hey Tom, did you take this picture? It looks like most of rock can be avoided on snow.

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...talked to Colin Haley and his bro. they say, it hasn't been done in winter. I think the TFT can be esier in winter than in summer because the snow level is high. can be done in a mountanering style. any thoughts?

 

Approach via torment basin or Roush Basin (eldo) and do a high traverse. You could at least bag torment and evaluate from there. Go for it, Oleg! :-)

 

The Torment can be probably climbed via its North Face - it looked very moderate in summer. There is no class 3-4 in winter!

 

599326.jpg

 

South view:

4379536580_0b17b36d75_o.jpg

 

 

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It looks like most of rock can be avoided on snow.

 

When I saw that pic I too was thinking to myself how those miles of hollow unstable cornice wallowing looked soooo much better than the protectible solid rock underneath.

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I took the photo on a ski trip of Torment's NW Glacier. The traverse definitely looked doable, but you would need just the right conditions to make it worthwhile. In good ski conditions (how we found it), it took us about 30 minutes to wallow 150' up the summit pyramid from its base. Firm , icy conditions would be required. I don't think it would be easier in Winter than it is in Summer FWIW.

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It looks like most of rock can be avoided on snow.

 

When I saw that pic I too was thinking to myself how those miles of hollow unstable cornice wallowing looked soooo much better than the protectible solid rock underneath.

 

The TFT is about 1 mile of ridge running, and the rock on the N side is not reported as solid and protectable. I've only climbed Torment myself and it was OK, but not solid by any means.

 

Tom is right - it is harder in winter and conditions are critical, but this winter could set up to allow such an adventure. Personally, I will stick to less serious objectives however. :-)

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The rock is just fine (by Cascades standards), at least on the north side detours that most folks use when not on the crest.

 

That looks like quite the stout winter objective. Good practice for some of the bigger AK objectives I suppose....

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I'd say that it might be fun and easy in some conditions and hard and scary in others. Most likely though it would be fun and scary and sometimes monotonous and cold and really too warm and there would be hard snow and soft snow and rocks loose and solid and cornices and sun and clouds and you would change your socks and drive home tired and a little proud and a week later you wouldn't think about it much and three years later you wouldn't even be sure if it ever really happened that way or if it even happened at all.

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