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danmcph

Good Alpine Rock Shoe

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What do you guys use for all day routes in the mountains up to 5.9 for a rock shoe? I am especially interested to know what options people are using that are light weight.

 

I know fit is key, but I am interested to know what you guys are using.

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I own more pairs of rock shoes than most women have high heels. Face shoes, thin crack shoes, wide crack shoes, aid shoes, all day shoes for moderates, approach shoes, shoes with history like Royal Robbins, EBs, and Fires.

 

For long moderate routes I use Mythos but the key is to make sure they are a little oversized and comfy because technical shoes will punish you on long routes.

 

 

Edited by matt_warfield

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For long moderate routes I use Mythos but the key is to make sure they are a little oversized and comfy because technical shoes will punish you on long routes.

 

 

+1 for the Mythos. Be aware that they do stretch a fair amount.

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I used a pair of scarpa technos for several years. Great shoe and hasn't been victim of the la sportiva inflation rate.

 

Recently I got the five ten newton and have been happy with them.

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Old La Sportiva Kaukulators a half size bigger than my normal rock shoes. I love the high top for the occaisional offwidth and it helps keep gravel and stuff out of the shoe on the easy sections. You pay a small weight penalty for the extra material (probably also true for the latest high tops), but it's on your feet when you are climbing and I never notice, trim your approach shoe weight instead cause those are in the pack. My shoe of choice for 5.9 and under long alpine.

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something board lasted

sized big enough for a liner sock

labeled as a "beginner" shoe, nothing fancy which means painful.

high top preferred

 

had boreal aces

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What do you guys use for all day routes in the mountains up to 5.9 for a rock shoe?

 

I use a tight fitted approach shoe like the Guide Tennie.

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I used a pair of scarpa technos for several years. Great shoe and hasn't been victim of the la sportiva inflation rate.

 

Recently I got the five ten newton and have been happy with them.

 

I second the technos. I've had one pair resoled twice and have a second pair I'm still breaking in. Great shoe!

 

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If it's sustained 5.8+ or above, I like my Mythos as well (which replaced my Kaukulators). I wear a very thin liner sock for comfort. If it's mostly mid-fifth class with a few harder moves I'm with G-spotter with the Guide Tennies...they are much more comfortable for a long day.

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how do you size your mythos for a comfy all day fit, but not too big (sloppy) since I heard they stretch quite a bit? I'm a 43 in katana (laces), sized tight. Can I get a pair of the Mythos in the same size and assume they'll stretch to be comfortable? Or should I size them a bit tighter?

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Buy them tight and they will stretch to be comfy. And never forget that you can take your shoes off at belays when convenient- it makes a big difference on the tootsies to get a break. At all costs avoid tight technical sport shoes that are designed for short burns with high performance.

Edited by matt_warfield

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The Mythos is a super comfy shoe, even when sized tightly. FWIW, mine are about 1.5 sizes smaller than my street shoe. I could probably wear a sock if I wanted to.

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whatever fits and you can wear all day ... i prefer velcro as i can take em off easily or pop the heels down at belays ...

 

you can get comfortable shoes that have good "performance" if you find the right fit ...

 

i use katana velcro personally ...

 

 

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I use a velcro too, the V-Mile from 5.10, with a loose enough fit that I can wear socks for cold days. They're 10.5, and I typically wear a 10.5-11 street shoe.

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I keep going back to the Boreal Ace - old school, yeah, but good support and reasonable comfort for long routes. They fit my feet better than any other shoe I've tried. I pick 'em up on E-bay for $10 - $20 per pair, and usually put a new C4 half sole on them (I do the resoling myself)

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comfortable velcro slippers. not sloppy comfortable. then off they come at the belays.

 

i don't know if there's any rock shoe that's comfortable on for long periods that still performs the way a rock shoe should, so might as well have a good performing shoe that isn't a hassle to take on and off.

 

 

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