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Good Alpine Rock Shoe


danmcph

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I own more pairs of rock shoes than most women have high heels. Face shoes, thin crack shoes, wide crack shoes, aid shoes, all day shoes for moderates, approach shoes, shoes with history like Royal Robbins, EBs, and Fires.

 

For long moderate routes I use Mythos but the key is to make sure they are a little oversized and comfy because technical shoes will punish you on long routes.

 

 

Edited by matt_warfield
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Old La Sportiva Kaukulators a half size bigger than my normal rock shoes. I love the high top for the occaisional offwidth and it helps keep gravel and stuff out of the shoe on the easy sections. You pay a small weight penalty for the extra material (probably also true for the latest high tops), but it's on your feet when you are climbing and I never notice, trim your approach shoe weight instead cause those are in the pack. My shoe of choice for 5.9 and under long alpine.

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  • 3 weeks later...
I used a pair of scarpa technos for several years. Great shoe and hasn't been victim of the la sportiva inflation rate.

 

Recently I got the five ten newton and have been happy with them.

 

I second the technos. I've had one pair resoled twice and have a second pair I'm still breaking in. Great shoe!

 

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Buy them tight and they will stretch to be comfy. And never forget that you can take your shoes off at belays when convenient- it makes a big difference on the tootsies to get a break. At all costs avoid tight technical sport shoes that are designed for short burns with high performance.

Edited by matt_warfield
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comfortable velcro slippers. not sloppy comfortable. then off they come at the belays.

 

i don't know if there's any rock shoe that's comfortable on for long periods that still performs the way a rock shoe should, so might as well have a good performing shoe that isn't a hassle to take on and off.

 

 

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