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telemarker

Castle Rock: Project Complete

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The pitch is No Such Thing as a free Lunge, 5.11d R. I have been working on this one since Spring this year, mostly on solo top rope. For most of this season I couldn't come close to sending it. However, I shed 30 lbs and worked on specific body tension exercises, and voila! Sent it this afternoon.

 

Even though I beat it into submission on tr, it still felt uniquely serious on lead. It's been an outstanding year! Still buzzing!

 

NSTFL:

2012-10-05_15-24-36_222.jpg

Edited by telemarker

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Nice work. While flash and onsight are admirable, thoroughly sussing a route, especially a runout one, on TR is a great tactic. And the enjoyment you got from your lead is the reason we climb

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Strong work John!! Proud send homie!

 

What's next? Rainbow Connection?

 

We should work Shriek of the Mutilated..

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Thanks! The next project is Das., which is almost achieved. Does Rainbow Connection have enough pro for a safe lead? I TR'd after Lunge and didn't see a whole lot of opportunities.

 

And yes, let's work on Shriek!

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Lots of good pro on RC, you gotta run it out a bit at the top but that's after all the difficulties.

 

You should take your cragging skills to the hills and go get on Der Sportsmen..

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Nice. Onsight is great, but there's a different sense of satisfaction that comes from becoming intimately familiar with a route, finding a solution that is uniquely suited to your abilities, and then honing those abilities to meet the challenge. While onsight is given the highest regard, in some ways it's the least involved type of climbing: walk up to a route and lead it and walk away. Projecting a route takes hard work and perseverance that can make success more sweet. I've got my own obsession to complete before the rain flies. Nice work getting yours done.

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Very Cool! It looks like all gear?? Nice work.

 

This has been my favorite style of climbing in the last few years... Climbing at my limit. Working routes I can't even come close first try. Fiddling with gear. Often run-out a little. Beat it until I have a good day and send! Good for you. Great feeling!

 

 

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. While onsight is given the highest regard,

 

Thanks!

 

Most definitely. I just don't have that physical and mental talent to onsight at or above my limit. At my age and limited talent level, you learn to savor any small victory that comes your way.

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. While onsight is given the highest regard,

 

Thanks!

 

Most definitely. I just don't have that physical and mental talent to onsight at or above my limit. At my age and limited talent level, you learn to savor any small victory that comes your way.

 

Psssh, whatever, dude. :) I don't know you, but this is no "small victory." :tup:

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I just don't have that physical and mental talent to onsight at or above my limit....

 

Nobody does. No matter what your level, you ought to be able to succeed on projects at least two letters harder than your best onsight. The fun and crazy thing is that your "limit" is just your "current limit", and this is mostly in your mind. Break on through to the other side....

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I just don't have that physical and mental talent to onsight at or above my limit....

 

Nobody does. No matter what your level, you ought to be able to succeed on projects at least two letters harder than your best onsight. The fun and crazy thing is that your "limit" is just your "current limit", and this is mostly in your mind. Break on through to the other side....

 

While I appreciate your enthusiasm, I disagree. The harder your level makes it even harder to get even one letter grade. And climbing is not only in your mind. Your body has to be up to the task.

 

I have known climbers that have hit their "current limit" of 5.13a and are unwilling and unable to advance to 5.13b. And etc. Now that Adam Ondra has done 5.15c do you think he should be able to do 5.16a by just thinking about it?

 

It takes months or years or so break on through sometimes.

Edited by matt_warfield

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bad ass.

 

Nah. Just stubborn.

 

I like that it's your namesake climb!

 

There's a route called Tan Snaffle?

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bad ass.

 

Nah. Just stubborn.

 

I like that it's your namesake climb!

 

There's a route called Tan Snaffle?

 

You should back off because she is not yet a cougar.

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