telemarker Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 (edited) The pitch is No Such Thing as a free Lunge, 5.11d R. I have been working on this one since Spring this year, mostly on solo top rope. For most of this season I couldn't come close to sending it. However, I shed 30 lbs and worked on specific body tension exercises, and voila! Sent it this afternoon. Even though I beat it into submission on tr, it still felt uniquely serious on lead. It's been an outstanding year! Still buzzing! NSTFL: Edited October 6, 2012 by telemarker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Nice work. While flash and onsight are admirable, thoroughly sussing a route, especially a runout one, on TR is a great tactic. And the enjoyment you got from your lead is the reason we climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensHolsten Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Psyched for ya John! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Strong work John!! Proud send homie! What's next? Rainbow Connection? We should work Shriek of the Mutilated.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 Thanks! The next project is Das., which is almost achieved. Does Rainbow Connection have enough pro for a safe lead? I TR'd after Lunge and didn't see a whole lot of opportunities. And yes, let's work on Shriek! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 Lots of good pro on RC, you gotta run it out a bit at the top but that's after all the difficulties. You should take your cragging skills to the hills and go get on Der Sportsmen.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 30 lbs! Congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted October 8, 2012 Author Share Posted October 8, 2012 30 lbs! Congrats! I was getting obese. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Nice. Onsight is great, but there's a different sense of satisfaction that comes from becoming intimately familiar with a route, finding a solution that is uniquely suited to your abilities, and then honing those abilities to meet the challenge. While onsight is given the highest regard, in some ways it's the least involved type of climbing: walk up to a route and lead it and walk away. Projecting a route takes hard work and perseverance that can make success more sweet. I've got my own obsession to complete before the rain flies. Nice work getting yours done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvshaker Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Very Cool! It looks like all gear?? Nice work. This has been my favorite style of climbing in the last few years... Climbing at my limit. Working routes I can't even come close first try. Fiddling with gear. Often run-out a little. Beat it until I have a good day and send! Good for you. Great feeling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted October 8, 2012 Author Share Posted October 8, 2012 . While onsight is given the highest regard, Thanks! Most definitely. I just don't have that physical and mental talent to onsight at or above my limit. At my age and limited talent level, you learn to savor any small victory that comes your way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 . While onsight is given the highest regard, Thanks! Most definitely. I just don't have that physical and mental talent to onsight at or above my limit. At my age and limited talent level, you learn to savor any small victory that comes your way. Psssh, whatever, dude. I don't know you, but this is no "small victory." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 I just don't have that physical and mental talent to onsight at or above my limit.... Nobody does. No matter what your level, you ought to be able to succeed on projects at least two letters harder than your best onsight. The fun and crazy thing is that your "limit" is just your "current limit", and this is mostly in your mind. Break on through to the other side.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 bad ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted October 8, 2012 Author Share Posted October 8, 2012 bad ass. Nah. Just stubborn. I like that it's your namesake climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cfire Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Well done Johnny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Well done Johnny! Thanks Chris! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecapone Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Sick work man!!! Better put some of those lbs back on. It's getting cold out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanl Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Inspiring as always John! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 (edited) I just don't have that physical and mental talent to onsight at or above my limit.... Nobody does. No matter what your level, you ought to be able to succeed on projects at least two letters harder than your best onsight. The fun and crazy thing is that your "limit" is just your "current limit", and this is mostly in your mind. Break on through to the other side.... While I appreciate your enthusiasm, I disagree. The harder your level makes it even harder to get even one letter grade. And climbing is not only in your mind. Your body has to be up to the task. I have known climbers that have hit their "current limit" of 5.13a and are unwilling and unable to advance to 5.13b. And etc. Now that Adam Ondra has done 5.15c do you think he should be able to do 5.16a by just thinking about it? It takes months or years or so break on through sometimes. Edited October 19, 2012 by matt_warfield Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 bad ass. Nah. Just stubborn. I like that it's your namesake climb! There's a route called Tan Snaffle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 bad ass. Nah. Just stubborn. I like that it's your namesake climb! There's a route called Tan Snaffle? You should back off because she is not yet a cougar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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