Eric K Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 (edited) Trip: Washington Pass - DEB of SEWS Date: 10/3/2012 Trip Report: Josh and I climbed the direct east buttress yesterday and we had a great day out. We were in the sun until we passed the first bolt ladder and did not get back into the sun until we made the summit. During this time it was VERY cold and belaying these pitches meant lots of shivering in the cold windy conditions. After following the second bolt Ladder Josh commented that it was the first time he had ever gotten the screaming barffies without ice climbing! Josh following the first 5.9 The first bolt ladder just before it got really cold I tried to take a picture of myself to show how cold I was after the second bolt ladder and this is the best I could do Josh topping out The decent was beautiful and the larches are looking good Overall we had a great day out. There is still time to do plenty of climbing out there but it is getting cold fast, go get it before its too late. Climbing in the shade is still doable but I would highly recommend bring a puffy jacket and some belaying gloves. I lost two pieces of gear on the 5.9+ pitch before the bolt ladder. One red Camelot which I tossed into a crack I could not see but felt like the right size, and a nut which was loaded and set into position while previously mentioned Camelot was trying to be retrieved. These are the first two pieces of gear I have ever gotten stuck and if anyone can retrieve either of these for me (especially the cam) I will get you a six pack of your choice. 360-420-8920 Eric Gear Notes: Doubles from .5" to 3", one 4" is usefully and so are alpine aiders r Approach Notes: Up to gully and right Edited October 3, 2012 by Eric K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson.g Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Nice job, that is a great route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Great route Lost a hex myself on that one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 (edited) Nice work extending the rock season. It is an essential skill in the PNW. Losing gear on routes comes with the territory. But still hope you get your gear back. Edited October 7, 2012 by matt_warfield Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornfed Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 We did this route on Saturday -- I don't recall seeing your gear, sorry. Not many people up there on what was an AMAZING weather weekend in October. This was a pretty big route for me and I was psyched to get it done. We started up from the hairpin fairly early and finished rapping just as the sun was starting to set. Perfect! We climbed the choss directly to the start, but descended to the Blue Lake TH and walked the road back to the car. I'll try to do a separate TR, but thought I'd share a couple of my thoughts. 1. The creek on the approach was surprisingly frozen from the night before. It was well below freezing at the hairpin and even colder up high. 2. Climbing crack and hand-jamming once in the shade is difficult when your hands start to go numb - aka pitch 3 and 4. 3. I thought Pitch 3 was the definite crux of the route (assuming aid on the bolted pitches). It was a long and strenuous crack that was on the shady side of the climb. I was happy to be following it. I'm curious if there is an alternate that goes straight up. We went around the arete to the far right (i.e. shade). 4. The first bolt ladder on the new Super-topo shows 14 bolts. This really threw us off. Even if you include the two bolt anchor (which wasn't shown on the Super-topo) there weren't that many bolts. 5. Love the new bolts; however, there were two in particular that looked like Becky placed them and that they'd blow as soon as I stepped into them. They didn't but I was kind of surprised. 6. 2nd bolt ladder is really closely spaced with new bolts, then there is a big gap and the 2nd of the sketchy bolts fills a gap between the only widely spaced bolts. 7. The guidebooks speak/ warn of the mantle after the 2nd bolt ladder as maybe the crux of the climb. It seems to me there are 2 mantles in a row! But for me, the crux is on pitch 3. 8. One reason I wonder if we went right of the main route is that pitch 4 finishes with a wide 4"-5" crack in a right-facing dihedral. We only had 1 - #4 and used it mid-way but could easily have used a 2nd or even a #5. The crack went about 5.8 so that seemed to jive, but I couldn't help feeling like we were on a variation. 9. The "step-down" off the summit makes you think twice. The move is rated accurately, but it is a bit gymnastic and the exposure and consequences are there! 8 hours on route total for us. Just over an hour to descend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson.g Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 My recollection of pitch three is a left facing corner, to a leftward traverse under a roof, then exiting up on the left hand edge of the roof, finishing with some nice easy cracks to the belay below and climbers left of the first bolt ladder. Nice job on an awesome route! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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