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jpark42

[TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 9/30/2012

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Trip: Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer

 

Date: 9/30/2012

 

Trip Report:

Decided to check out the new route on Witch Doctor Wall. I'll let the excellent topo explain the approach and pertinent info. Here are my thoughts/photo's:

 

Pitch 1: Not bad we trundled off some more blocks so it's even better now.

Pitch 2: The start is super dirty still and super memorable. The climbing gets a lot more fun at the layback at the top.

Pitch 3: Fun layback moves followed by some dirty stuff. Will be even more fun once it's gets a full washing this winter

Pitch 4: Money pitch and probably one of my favorites this season. Super fun 5.11 moves followed by a 10+ corner that's really fun

Pitch 5: My second favorite pitch. Climb flacks to a couple of unexpected and fun bolted slab moves

Pitch 6: We pass on the 6th 5.10 pitch and opted to take 5.easy scramble to the rap chains. The last pitch is still super dirty and we weren't in the mood for dealing it. This begin said the run is super cool there (with dykes running all through it similar to Squamish) and could be fun after through clean session.

 

Overall this climb was awesome, it just needs a nice hard rain to clean some of the dirty off it. I'd definitely suggest this climbing someone looking for an obscure 5.10ish route with easy access and low commitment (due to the bolted repels). The only suggestion I might make is to use double ropes as the first two pitches wonder a little bit. Here are the picture and video of me trundling and incessantly dropping the f-bomb . Photo's/Video

 

 

Gear Notes:

I might suggest doubles but can be done with 1 70m

 

Approach Notes:

Fairly easy. Follow the topo

Edited by jpark42

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Great to see this route getting a few sends in the last couple weeks.   Certainly a unique wall for the area with it's relative steepness compared to Darrington's more historic slab routes.  As a handful have suggested (and often true with many new Cascade lines), more traffic is key to a new line's improving quailty.

 

A quick comment on the last pitch for other parties that might head out for this endeavor:

We found the sixth pitch to look more intimidating (steep + dirty) than how it ends up actually climbing.  We added this on in our final FA effort as it felt like a much more natural and grade-consistent finish than the moderate leftward gully.

 

The 5 pitches of air underneath is a memorable position for the line's traversing exit with surprisingly good face features. While there is plenty of lichen on this final wall, the climbing itself is pretty clean and strait forward (we were all a little surprised this pitch went on-sight without any prior rap-in cleaning nor bolting necessary).

 

This line already appeals to slightly more adventurous parties with both it's newness and being on a slightly more obscure wall.  But if you find yourself looking up at this sixth pitch and the lower pitches went smooth for you, then it's worth venturing up to check the finish.

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