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What pants for alpine climbing?


danmcph

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I need pants for winter routes. Ranndo skiing and winter alpine climbing in the lower 48. Currently I have a pair of the original BD alpine pants made out of schoeller. Like 18oz. I also have a pair of Mtn Hardware Circa 2002 3 layer gore-tex pants with a high waist and suspenders. Like 23oz

 

I know that there has been huge developments in fabric and options in the last 10 years. What are people doing for pant systems? What materials perform well. Who combines these materials into a light pair of great pants?

 

I am thinking I need to buy two pairs or so. A softshell and a hardshell. Recommendations?

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I'm a big fan of the NW Alpine Fast/Light pant, though this is the only climbing pant I have ever owned. I find that it breathes extremely well and sheds water fairly well. One of my favorite things about this pant is that there are no bells and whistles; no pockets under your harness and no vents (vents aren't needed because of the outstanding breathability).

 

I own a pair of OR hardshell pants but I haven't yet used them so I don't have an opinion on them.

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NW Alpine just changed the material for the Fast/Light pant. They were ~17oz, now down to ~13oz. Probably better for 3 season use now, not as good for winter. The new pants are not yet for sale, and I certainly have not tried the Fall 2012 offering.

 

Patagonia just redid their winter softshells, their "guide" line of pants. They used Polartech Power Shield, which is the best compromise IMO if you're going to use a membrane. Basically waterproof, but stretchy and breathable. I wouldn't want heavier than the Alpine guide for use in the lower 48. I've laid my hands on these, but haven't used a pair in the wild.

 

An excellent and overlooked pant is the REI Acme. Top-notch Schoeller fabric is incredibly stretchy, and the Nano Shield treatment does an excellent job with moisture. Right around 17oz, which is the same as the old NW Alpine.

 

I haven't noticed any NeoShell pants new for this season, which is a shame. Rab's NeoShell pants are excellent from last year, but they're more of a hardshell. If you're stuck on getting two pairs of pants, the Rab would be the first pair of waterproof I would recommend.

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It is hard to go wrong with a modern softshell pant these days for trips in the pine. I have a pair of stoic, first ascent, and mountain hardware softshells. Out of the three, the mountain hardware pair that I picked up on steepandcheap.com is the warmest, best constructed, and most durable. I think they are called Sarpa.

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They used Polartech Power Shield, which is the best compromise IMO if you're going to use a membrane.

 

There's no membrane in Powershield.

 

What sort of construction is it?

 

Polartec's website calls it a membrane, FWIW. http://www.polartec.com/shelter/polartec-power-shield/how-does-it-work.aspx Not trying to be right, just curious.

 

It's mildly fleece lined with tight woven exterior- feels like stretchy neoprene. LOVE IT for softshell winter bottoms, usually just use light weight long underwear underneath

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They used Polartech Power Shield, which is the best compromise IMO if you're going to use a membrane.

 

There's no membrane in Powershield.

 

What sort of construction is it?

 

Polartec's website calls it a membrane, FWIW. http://www.polartec.com/shelter/polartec-power-shield/how-does-it-work.aspx Not trying to be right, just curious.

 

No, the website does not call it a membrane. It's a stretchy face fabric with fleece backing. No membrane at all.

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They used Polartech Power Shield, which is the best compromise IMO if you're going to use a membrane.

 

There's no membrane in Powershield.

 

What sort of construction is it?

 

Polartec's website calls it a membrane, FWIW. http://www.polartec.com/shelter/polartec-power-shield/how-does-it-work.aspx Not trying to be right, just curious.

 

No, the website does not call it a membrane. It's a stretchy face fabric with fleece backing. No membrane at all.

 

Perhaps I'm misreading the graphic on Polartec's website. I see: abrasion resistant surface fabric, moderate air exchange membrane, and a thermal insulation layer.

 

My understanding is Power Shield consists generally of those three layers, sometimes without the inner insulation layer. It's that membrane which makes Power Shield unique, providing its low air permeability compared to other softshell garments.

 

I could be wrong, and a couple of you here seem to think so. Could you please explain?

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I have the new men's Patagonia Mixed Guide Pants (Powershield and H2NO in the knees and ass.) I just got them, but they fit awesome.

 

I also have the men's Westcomb Chief Bib . Again, a mix of Powershield and eVent.

 

I'm a big fan of the hybrid pants. They breath exceptional due to the softshell, but waterproof and seam taped where you need it the most.

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I've got last year's NW Alpine pants too and they're kickass. They replaced my old Mammut Champ Pants but aren't as warn, I use them in the summer as well as winter (just layer underneath) though I do use the NW Alpine Salopette a lot in the winter as well. Well designed and (relatively) inexpensive.

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There's no membrane in that "moderate air exchange".

It's describing the breathability of the two layers.

There is no third layer.

You are just mistaken, and you are misinterpreting the web page.

 

 

I did a little digging, and it appears that we may be talking about 2 different Polartec fabrics:

PowerShield is a co-woven textile without a membrane...

 

PowerShield PRO was released in 2010, and does have a membrane...

http://www.wildsnow.com/2212/polartec-powershield-pro-review/

 

Totally confusing. They should have named it something else.

 

The above-listed Westcomb link (i.e., ) says their Power Shield pants do have a membrane:

 

- Made with 4-way stretch Polartec® Power Shield®: A three-layer softshell fabric consisting of a windproof-breathable membrane sandwiched between an abrasion resistant face and industry leading velour knit fleece. Polartec® Power Shield® can resist wear and tear from the outside, while providing continuing warmth on the inside.

 

Regardless whether Power Shield does or does not have a membrane, it seems we all agree that it is a great construction for alpine climbing pants. And at the end of the day, that's what really matters.

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