Ice Climbing Boots Dane?

[danmcph]

I have read everything I can find via google. Lots of time on coldthistle. I am still not sure what to get.

 

I am starting to do alpine ice. I live by the Tetons and Hyalite and Salt Lake City are close by. I have would like to get to the point where I am doing longer alpine ice routes like the Kain Route etc with long sustained sections plus low class "classic" mixed terrain. I don't think high grade mixed or long WI5 ice will be something I will lead anytime soon.

 

I have a pair of La Sportiva S Evo's and they fit well but I do get some heel lift. I climbed in them once and they seemed to flex quite a bit and I was freezing. Surprise, it's a 3 season boot.

 

I was thinking of either a Trango Extreme EVO or a Nepal EVO GTX. I would like the boot as light as possible but good for long sustained routes. I wear a size 9.5 and weigh 200 w/out gear.

 

What boot should I get? What other boots are there that I should consider? Scarpa Guide Etc.

 

[RafalA]

Not to be annoying, but get the ones that fit best. Always.

 

What you're looking for is a mid-insulated, full-shank boot with, preferably, toe and heel bails (fully automatic crampon compatible, in other words).

 

From LS, your choices are: Batura, Nepal EVO, Trango Extreme EVO and Trango Prime.

 

From Scarpa, you have: Phantom Guide, Mont Blanc, and the Jorasses Pro (or the Freney, if you can find one, the Jorasses is the new version).

 

There are also options from Kayland, Lowa, Millet, Mammut, etc.

 

The new-style gaitered boots (Batura, Phantom Guide) may be too warm for what you're planning to do, though they do tend to climb better than the more traditional leather options (Nepal, Mont Blanc).

 

The more ice- and mixed- oriented boots (Trangos, Jorasses) seem to fit narrower and have more ankle flex, though often their sole is stiffer.

 

The leather boots will (probably) last longer if you take care of them.

 

Hope this helps!

[Luzak00]

First of all, I'm not Dane. Second, I can elaborate more if you're interested.

 

Sportiva's main offerings are the Trango Extreme (Silver), Batura ("1.5" boot), Nepal.

 

All these are very different types of boots. The above order is in better to lesser climbing performance, but this is also a reverse of the boots' durability.

 

The Trango Extreme is a great climbing boot. It's small, stiff, light, and warm. A great performer, but the nature of the construction means these boots won't last as long as the other two.

 

The Batura is much higher volume than either of these two, but climbs exceptionally well. Probably the warmest of the three, and the built-in gaitor is great. These can be too warm, and I don't like them as much for glacier slogs as the other two options, but definitely have their niche.

 

The Nepal is the winter mountaineering boot. I see more of these than anything else out there, and for good reason. They are by far the most durable of these three, suffer a bit of a weight penalty because of that same leather construction, and might be the most comfortable walker (the Trangos are lighter, but the Nepals feel better to me, so it's a wash). Plenty stiff enough for technical climbing, this is the all-around cold weather boot IMO.

 

Scarpa makes equivalents of all these boots, more or less. Fit is the paramount difference.

 

There are nuances and personal preferences with all these having their pros and cons. With that said, if I had to make this as simple as possible…

For long alpine routes including glacier/snow slogs, some ice, and a long lasting boot, the Nepal is the winner.

If weight is most paramount, cost and durability aside, for the best technical climbing performance, you can't beat the Trango Extreme.

For warmth and simplicity, light weight and great technical performance, the Batura is your boot.

 

Any of these three boots will work. You're into good/better/best, where there isn't necessarily a clear objective winner here.

[danmcph]

I just ordered the Nepals

[CaleHoopes]

Just a bit of advice.... (I've done a ton of research too here)... GET BOOTS FROM SOMEWHERE WITH AN UNLIMITED RETURN POLICY. That usually means backcountry.com. Yep, they rock.

 

I know you said you ordered, but the coolest thing about backcountry and ice boots is that their return policy makes it so you can try a bunch.

 

Also, I can't underestimate the use of the FESTIVALS. Hyalite and Ouray festivals should have demo boots from Sportiva & Scarpa with occasional stragglers like Asolo. I've been intrigued by the Salewa boots too.

 

I ended up with Baruntse and the heal lift thing usually has to do most with lacing. I intend on trying Batura's in Ouray this year and may check out the Phantom Guide or something similar. I will be demo'ing a ton of boots at Ouray. I find this is one of the hardest categories of gear.

 

And yes, Dane's site rocks for this category.

[Luzak00]

Just a bit of advice.... (I've done a ton of research too here)... GET BOOTS FROM SOMEWHERE WITH AN UNLIMITED RETURN POLICY. That usually means backcountry.com. Yep, they rock.

 

Lots of goodness in this post, but this is totally worth highlighting.

 

Getting a good deal on boots is only wise if you are sure the boots work for you. Zappos is ok, with free returns, but you can only wear them around the house. Backcountry and REI offer true 100% satisfaction guarantees.

[RafalA]

Just a bit of advice.... (I've done a ton of research too here)... GET BOOTS FROM SOMEWHERE WITH AN UNLIMITED RETURN POLICY. That usually means backcountry.com. Yep, they rock.

 

Lots of goodness in this post, but this is totally worth highlighting.

 

Getting a good deal on boots is only wise if you are sure the boots work for you. Zappos is ok, with free returns, but you can only wear them around the house. Backcountry and REI offer true 100% satisfaction guarantees.

 

Man you guys in the US are lucky. Hard enough to even find a place up here that will order something not stocked by MEC, and no chance of returns on most of that!

[CaleHoopes]

RafalA... let me know if you need me to order you something... I can help you out - as long as you show me Canmore if I come climbing up there ;-)

[RafalA]

RafalA... let me know if you need me to order you something... I can help you out - as long as you show me Canmore if I come climbing up there ;-)

 

Thanks for the offer! Will definitely keep that in mind.

 

Give me a shout anytime you're up this way... lots of stuff to climb around here!

[ChrisCNY]

Definite thumbs way up for Backcountry.com. best in the business in my opinion. Their return policy is second to none which allows you to try on, use and decided whether that specific article is right for you. Top company, hands down!

 

For what it's worth, I climbed in the Kayland Hyper Traction last year and thought they were pretty cool.

[danmcph]

I received my Nepal evo's and they have a lot of heel lift. Someone above said that can be fixed with lacing? How?

 

If it is due to fit of the boot does anyone know if another company has boots that generally speaking have a smaller heel box?

[rob]

Several options: orthotic inserts with a heel cup that fits. I do this on all my boots due to my weird feet. Also, as you noted, you can change your lacing technique. I also do this. There are lots of examples of different techniques on the Internet, you'll have to experiment. Also, it sounds silly, but you might also try different socks. I have specific socks for each boot I own.