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[TR] Cabient Mountains - Ojibway Peak - Standard Route 9/22/2012


kevino

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Trip: Cabient Mountains - Ojibway Peak - Standard Route

 

Date: 9/22/2012

 

Trip Report:

Since moving to Spokane for school at the beginning of the month, I have had a good time exploring some of the local cragging and the classic Chimney Rock Chimney Rock. Yesterday though, I got to venture into the Cabinet Mountain Wilderness area of Western Montana, which I personally had never heard of until I moved out here. The SW face of Ojibway caught my eye in the book, and it was an easy sell to Andy to go check it out.

 

Unfortunately all the pictures have some degree of haziness from all the Central WA fires. If anyone wants more beta or to climb some of these other peaks I'd be happy to go back.

 

The SW face:

P1030454.JPG

 

So we left Spokane early saturday morning and started hiking in some great fall colors in the early morning.

 

P1030438.JPG

 

Once you get up to Rock Lake, the mountains reveal themselves

P1030450.JPG

 

At the base of the route: follow the right facing corner, go through the roof, continue up cracks and face climbing to just left of the top of the face

P1030460.JPG

 

Looking down P2 at Andy coming thru the roof

P1030462.JPG

 

Andy following P3:

P1030468.JPG

 

Looking down P4:

P1030471.JPG

 

Andy climbing P4:

P1030473.JPG

 

The traverse to start P5:

P1030481.JPG

 

Andy following:

P1030483.JPG

 

You top out and have just a little ways to scramble up to the top. Good views of the surrounding peaks

P1030492.JPG

 

P1030495.JPG

 

We capped off the trip with a nice dip in the Lake

P1030511.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Single set of cams and nuts. A #4 is not needed despite what the guidebook says.

 

Approach Notes:

Drive to Noxon, MT. Take FS 150 and it is smooth driving all the way to the TH.

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The guidebook gives a rating of 5.7. I'd say its a fine alpine rating, however a feel a 5.7 leader would be out of place because of the mandatory runouts. A lot of this climb is face climbing because the crack isn't that great for climbing or taking pro.

 

We did the route in 6 pitches, going 60m, 50m, 30m, 25m, 45m, 20m. The third and fifth required a bit of traversing hence the shorter lengths. The hiking guidebook says its 8 miles round trip to the lake, so maybe 10ish plus the extra elevation to the face. The trail is very easy, I think it took us about 9 hours round trip.

 

Andy's pictures

DSCN1189.jpeg

 

the roof on p2

ojibway1.jpg

 

Me with a stupid grin

ojibway2.jpg

Edited by kevino
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