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Alpine bivy sack


Eric K

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I've posted this many times before and I know that many people disagree. But: I don't know why everyone buys bivvy sacks.

 

If you are sleeping out with a good stable forecast, why bring it? Dew? I don't think it is worth the weight if you are climbing in the Northwest on a high pressure forecast and rain is not in the offing. Should tragedy strike, you will make it through the night and go home in the morning. If it does not rain, You will sleep just fine in the sleeping bag dampened by dew. Many people say: the bivvy sack adds "x" degrees to my sleeping bag. A few ounces of down will add more.

 

If you are heading out with a questionable forecast, or maybe just plain a good chance of rain or snow, why bring a bivvy sack? Tents are 3 pounds these days. Tarps are less. Take one. It is much more comfortable than a bivvy sack. Even a micro sized single walled tent offers more comfort than a bivvy sack. A tarp offers a lot more comfort - unless you are camped in a long established campsite that may be overrun with mice or unless you are camping above timberline.

 

There are specific applications where a bivvy sack would be good, like where there is not room for a tent, but really very few, in my opinion.

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In the alpine, a bivy sack has to be waterproof or it's not worth taking (see above post).

 

A light bivy will weigh about a pound, and won't breathe that well. A Black Diamond Firstlight or similar has enough room for two, plus some gear, you can cook in it, sit in it, and it hardly takes up more room than two side-by-side bivies.

 

These days, a bivy is a very specialized piece of gear - very rarely is it a better choice than a "bivy tent." If you know you need one, then options by Black Diamond, Marmot, and Rab are all worth a look.

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Depends on orientation. If your head's into the wind those things can turn into great big wind socks.

 

Agree with Mattp. I like a lightweight backup even in good weather, though:

 

AMK sol bivvy

 

After a couple of hours you'll be one clammy pilgrim, but they are great for little unexpected squalls, or when the cloud deck drops in on you. I call mine Russel.

 

Real live bivvys are good for multi day climbs where tent space isn't going to happen. With Tarptents and the like, they don't seem to be a very good option, otherwise.

Edited by tvashtarkatena
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I've got a Mountain Hardwear Direkt 2 I am pretty happy with, but sometimes for those fast and light climbs I prefer my rab ascent bivi which weighs 525g (18.5 ounces) if you take out the removable bug net.

 

It is just so much easier finding a flat spot to lay out a bivi than it is to find space for a tent footprint sometimes.

 

Ive had about 8 different bivies and they have all had massive amounts of condenstaion except the epic and eVent ones. The epic ones however leaked like a sieve when the thunderstorms started rolling in and Ive been pretty happy with the Rab ascent so far.

 

rab_bivi.JPG

Edited by Chickenthief
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Eric,

My bag is Pieps bivvy bag. Single version... I have it on my day trips always. Not only in case I need it.

 

Pieps made it for backcountry trips but I carry it in summer too.

Maybe someone else will need it if get stranded and I have to go for help. In winter could be used as drag bag/carry bag to move injured person.

 

It's waterproof and compact.

 

Pieps bag

Edited by Zoran
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I'm happy with the REI Minimalist. Breaths well, keeps my bag dry and clean and mesh around the face lets air in and keeps bugs out. The benefits to me are worth the weight - a litle under one pound. Also costs less than half most other models. Like Matt says, if rain is forecast I bring a 3# tent.

 

 

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Since you said "ALPINE" bivy, tarps are OUT, got a Marmot Alpinist cheaply and like it quite a bit, use a 40 degree bag with it and have slept quite warmly with very little bulk. IMHO being up high bugs are not a problem (either cause it's too cold or just windy or there's no ponds nearby).

 

So..... Just find a WATERPROOF bag as small and cheaply as you can, if you do get caught in a nasty situation (rain or snow) you'll be glad you have it.

 

They're nice to have also for keeping your bag out of the dirt.

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My wife and I have this one from Montbell (http://www.montbell.us/products/disp.php?cat_id=33&p_id=2321027) and it kept us dry when we got snowed on at Burgundy col. It's light, waterproof, packs small and is fully seam taped. But I have to agree with Matt, as we bailed in the morning anyway. Had it started snowing earlier in the night though, we would have been drier than without.

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There's a minimalist bag from Adventure Medical Kits that I've used quite a bit. What is lacks in permiability and breathability it makes up for in weight. I got a nice Sierra Designs bivy but I have yet to use it. Either I'm going for the day or have a tent, so I've not found a good use for it.

I've been known to do some silly things to save weight. 34175_556532657360_7973100_n.jpg

As have my partners, particularly when they forget their bivy sacs. 5145_534356967620_1859605_n.jpg

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  • 5 weeks later...

Wetslide. that is one of my favorite bivy sites in the world. We stayed there last year before climbing Backbone Ridge. Fucking classic! I even got to skinny dip with my (then) girlfriend (sigh...).

 

My bivy sack choice is this one: super light: http://www.ortovox.com/accessories/gemini-single-1

 

it is STUPID light and very warm. I've used it in the Alaska Range with a 20 degree back in April and been warm!

 

 

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that photo on the boulder brings a thought. I have been using a 40 to 50 degree down bag liner exclusively in the non winter months. for the weight of that sleeping bag in a garbage sack, you could have one of these down bag liners and a BD first light tent. A way better option than any bag/bivy combo for any season.

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