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[TR] Chimney Rock - Rappel Chimney 9/13/2012


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Trip: Chimney Rock - Rappel Chimney


Date: 9/13/2012


Trip Report:

After a hiatus in 2011 (I had to launch a career sometime...), Kevin and I got back together for yet another September alpine adventure. Plans were hatched, and we trained hard in anticipation. :lmao: Kevin recently moved to Spokane to start grad school, so we decided to spend a week getting acquainted with the local cragging, head to the Selkirks for some alpine granite, and of course check out the Spokane social scene.


On Wednesday we packed up and drove to Sand Point to obtain beta and groceries. We stopped by Mountain Essentials and chatted with Nick, who dispensed useful info and tasty IPA from the tap. The new model for gear shops?


Another great resource in Sand Point was the map shop at the end of the block near Mountain Essentials.


After a quick stop for a couple pitches at Laclede, we continued on to the maze of forest roads on the east side of Priest Lake. Feeling pretty confident that we were following the directions properly, we inadvertently found our way up a creek without a paddle. The logging road turned improbably steep, narrowed significantly, and was full of deep water bars. After stalling a couple times and attempting to back down, we decided to park (as level as possible), get some sleep, and extract ourselves in the morning.IMG_00421.jpg

With little difficulty we got ourselves down the road. A friendly logger told us which turns to take, and soon we were at Horton Ridge trailhead.P1030388.jpg

Breakfast of champions.


The trail is in great shape and goes by quick. We made good time up to the saddle on Mt. Roothaan, and were greeted with our first views of Chimney Rock.


After dropping into the basin and traversing a bit, we were at the base of the West Face. We launched up the classic "Rappel Chimney" route for a proper introduction.

Easy ramps to a spacious ledge on the skyline.



Kevin getting down to business on pitch 2.



Pitch 3 is exposed and all fun. Beware the loose blocks at the top-left of the chimney mid-pitch.



Another fantastic belay ledge.



Pitch 4 follows the blocky ridge line to the summit.




We rapped back to the first belay ledge, and set up a toprope for "Twin Cracks."

Kevin and I agreed that this would make a great alternative to the first pitch of "Rappel Chimney."



On the way out we scrambled up Mt. Roothaan to take in the scenery. Kevin set up the self-timer for this summit shot, and upon reviewing the result he started laughing and said "we definitely need to re-do that picture!" Still wearing pants:



A fun day in the hills on some great rock. This trip definitely re-kindled the stoke for me to get back into the mountains after taking a year off.


We were back in Spokane by early evening, and ready to wash away the dust. :brew::brew::crazy: Kevin chose wisely and is renting in a college neighborhood. As the saying goes: we get older, but they stay the same age!


Looking forward to keeping the tradition alive next year!



Gear Notes:

Double rack to 2", 60m rope, lots of runners to combat rope drag


Approach Notes:

We used the Horton Ridge approach, which comes in from the west. 1:30 car to crag, with plenty of first-timer lolly-gagging. Last mile of road is steep, rocky, loose, and has very deep water bars. Bring big wheels or plan on walking this section.


Many of the road signs are knocked down or flat-out unreadable, thanks to some trigger-happy folks with buckshot and .45

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