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how would you deal


layton

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The best thing is to talk to an AMGA certified guide because they know their shit better than 99.59% of the people on this site.

 

They are in the wilderness with no cell phone reception.

 

They don't have a phone number for any AMGA guide

 

The guides don't have time to answer questions over the phone, and/or they are also in the wilderness with no cell phone reception.

 

I would guess in sheer numbers that there are just as many knowledgeable non-guide climbers as there are AMGA guides.

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First off, don't blindly rappel over the roof!

 

Talk to me (or other certified guides) all you want, but I'll probably tell you to call Ammon and see what they do in the Valley.

 

Layton's idea of rapping 400', aiding up to the knot (or just above) and building an anchor sounds like a good one. I'd keep the lowest end of the rope with me, so that I can pull my partner over to my stance via a fireman's belay (and not leave me stranded when he can't get back over to me).

 

Oh, and some of us have cell phones and aren't out in the wilderness all the time!

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