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Otto

[TR] Squire Creek Wall - Oso Rodeo 8/28/2012

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Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Oso Rodeo

 

Date: 8/28/2012

 

Trip Report:

We are trying again for the first one-day ascent of this 20-pitch route. Now I am honored to climb with chucK, whose time in the mountains is so limited in recent years. The summer days are still long enough. With a declining weather forecast I jump at the chance to climb in cool temperatures with a strong partner.

 

We leave town at 6:00am, the trailhead at 8:00, and this time I get a photo of the big log that has fallen over the Slab Daddy approach trail, near the top of the woods.

 

2622.jpg

 

Getting to the base of the route at 9:00am seems like a good start. This is what you're looking for at the base, a nice dry watercourse!

 

2624.jpg

 

This shows the route up to the sky. I leave the bulky camera at the base, so there are no more photos. We turn around at the top at 6:40pm. chucK says, "It's a good route", and we rappel leaving a bottle of water on the U-shaped ledge. We reach the forest at dark at 8:30pm and descend by lamplight.

 

2627.jpg

 

 

Gear Notes:

There is a place for a 4" cam on the first pitch, but not all parties will need it.

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I dropped an iodine pill in that bottle of water when we left it. So if you find the bottle and the water looks brown, be assured that it is a nice sterile, dead, chemical brown.

 

The route is 20 pitches of fun, and you can stop and rap any time if you happen to lose the stoke. I hit the figurative wall on pitch 18, but was (barely) able to suck it up and complete my on point duties and get the rope up 19, a cool pitch but with an intimidating start (or maybe it was my frame of mind).

 

Other highlights that come to mind:

p1: easy cracks to get the blood flowing then some wavy slabs with a short balancy crux.

 

p10: Very smooth start, but frictiony and not too steep. Trust your feet exam.

 

p11: cracks! sweet.

 

p12: steep but enough edges to make it fun and sustained

 

p15: The "yellow wall" highly featured fun slab.

 

p16: superfun finger crack traverse.

 

Route info can be found here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1044503

 

Thanks Otto!

 

 

Edited by chucK

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Nice job you guys! Can't wait to get on it. Keep putting up routes like this and the stoke will keep coming. Darrington Rocks!!!!

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