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IanNicholson

New Washington Pass Super Topo book

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looks like a sweet book! Nice to have a guide to the area...

just wondering:

when I climbed the Passenger Route in '07 it was decidedly 11c, when did it jump grades to 12a?

 

 

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Just got my first glimpse of the book: nice work Ian! Stoke was overflowing as I thumbed through the pages, rain pouring down outside...super cool!

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You may be a sandbagger. Acceptable at 5.9 but frowned on at mid 5.11. :P

 

So it's okay to screw the moderate climbers but not the upper tier?

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The passenger did get bumped to 5.12.. Better update my scorecard.

http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Washington-Pass-South-Early-Winters-Spire-The-Passenger

 

Jokes aside, the hard moves were short lived and not sustained. Not sure how people grade short hard moves vs long burly pitches. I always think that short hard moves are easier physiologically. The long sustained crack pitches with no "crux" are the ones that I fear.

 

Great route though, everyone climbing anywhere near 5.11 could get up this and have fun.

 

 

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looks like a sweet book! Nice to have a guide to the area...

just wondering:

when I climbed the Passenger Route in '07 it was decidedly 11c, when did it jump grades to 12a?

 

A lot of parties just climb first 4 or 5 pitches and rap down. The real crux is the crappy moss covered fleering crack 2 pitches from the top (rapping after pitch 4 would explain why the bottom of the route is clean and the top is covered in dirt). Also some parties claiming doing the route, never do the crux without hanging or pulling on bolt. I think also that the crux is totally dependent on your wing span. I am 5'6.5" and I have really hard time reaching between the holds.

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:battlecage:

 

Well I am 6'1" and the route is over my head so I'm not shedding any tears for shorties that can do it.

Edited by matt_warfield

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Head out to the Tractor Tavern in Ballard for Ian's book release party to get your book and rock out to The Strugggles!! Books will be on sale and at a stellar deal...by the way, admission is FREE.

 

ianShow-1.jpg

 

 

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