rocky_joe Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Trip: Matterhorn Peak - North Arete Date: 8/22/2012 Trip Report: Climbed the north arête of matterhorn peak yesterday car to car with a friend from Shasta and two others from Tahoe. Haven't seen this posted too many times so I figured I'd give it a shout. The approach was big, although I wouldn't go as far as calling it massive like the books do. We brought crampons for the approach/descent which were very useful; could be done without, but they sped things up on the glacier. The route finding went well for our group, started on the easier looking ramp past the base of the arête, and smiled through ~300ft of 4th to 5.6 terrain. The rock here is quite loose and gritty. Rock quality and climbing improved once on the right side of the arête. 3-4 more pitches of enjoyable climbing get you to the summit ridge where it easy/mod 4th takes you to the register. It was my first high Sierra route, and while it was fun, it will definitely never be a super classic because of the approach and rock quality in the lower half. No photos, because somehow not one of us brought a camera or charged phone. Gear Notes: Single .4-3 (4 might be nice for the last pitch), nuts with some doubles in mid sizes. Lots of slings. Approach Notes: 6mi, 4.5k on half on/ half off trail. Pons are nice for the "glacier." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.