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[TR] Exfo Dome- Proxima Wall - Ancient Melodies (of the Future) 8/19/2012


hanman

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Trip: Exfo Dome- Proxima Wall - Ancient Melodies (of the Future)III, 5.11-

 

Date: 8/19/2012

 

Trip Report:

Danny Coltrane and I finally finished a new route on Exfoliation Dome in Darrington last weekend. This route is situated on the southern flank of Blueberry Hill, and provides a unique view of the buttress route and summit massif, along with some really exciting climbing on great features. In 2001 or so, good buddy S. Packard and I did an exploratory foray up the right hand margin of this wall, getting a long 3 pitches up and blanking out completely on a vertical smooth headwall before resorting to a few desperate bathooks to a ledge. The new route shares the first pitch of our 2001 effort and the previous high point anchors situated at the bottom of P4. Fast forward 2 kids, 2 dogs, a goldfish, a dozen years, lots of beer, a few pounds of penalty weight, and several new routes in between; I was drawn to the place once again in 2011. A big thanks to good friend JR Storms for humping loads on several occasions!

 

Upper right flank of BBH

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P2

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View from Blueberry rt

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Workin the veggies

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Frog pond on the sidewalk

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P4

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Part way up P3

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Route tops out at the gendarme straight up from my sexy head

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Danny on P3 crux traverse

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Pronounced rib at P1, top of approach gully

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Edited by hanman
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It was a pleasure running into you guys last wknd & congrats on the FA. Think we got an ok pic of you guys on the crux (?) pitch but I'll have to look for it. In the meantime here's a lousy pic of the top out...gotta look real close :)

IMG_0338-1024x768.jpg

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I just missed you. Nicola Masciandaro and I went partway up Jacob's Ladder on the 20th. We were scared off by the thin flake on pitch 6. But then, I got gripped just walking up and down the granite sidewalk. Has anyone tumbled down that thing?

 

Anyway, looks like a nice addition to a great piece of rock. Thanks for putting it up!

 

Jon

 

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fgw- nice to meet you up there, glad you had a good day, it was cool to see you guys getting to the summit just as we pulled the final moves.

 

Jon- It would not be good to tumble, though I've never heard of anyone taking the ride :)

 

Our hope is to clean up a direct 3 pitch west slabs start by end of summer in an effort to avoid the gully approach, which is not too tedious in reality...It would be about 5.8 methinks.

 

MH

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  • 1 year later...

Three direct pitches (5.6, 5.7, 5.8) up the apron slightly right of center now reach the Proxima Wall and start of the true Melodies route. Makes for a nice warm up to the real business.

 

Danny and I put this together a couple weeks ago- Enjoy

 

M. Hanna

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Nice work you guys, glad to hear about the three new pitches! That slab looked like it had a lot of potential; I'm sure you made better use of the resource than that original winding route with all the runouts. I've got to get over there soon!

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