Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Torment-Forbidden - Traverse 8/19/2012

Recommended Posts

Trip: Torment-Forbidden - Traverse


Date: 8/19/2012


Trip Report:

Yes, another TR on the Torment-Forbidden traverse. Basically, this is more of a conditions update for anyone who is interested.


The route is in great condition. The snow traverse is still in but the bergshrund is growing larger by the day. We had to climb down below it and back up to the ridge. Everything was straight forward with the exception of the descent from the west ridge notch on forbidden. We stupidly descended via the broken snow finger/glacier instead of rappelling down the bypass chimneys. Don't make that mistake.


Plenty of running water on the route so a stove is not necessary. However, make sure to refill water at the bivy ledge as there are no snow patches after that (if you are traversing west-east).


Anyway, here are some pictures...



On the Taboo glacier



Torment SW ridge notch



Summit of Torment



Rappel onto the North side glacier from the notch on Torment



Snow traverse in good condition



Awesome views from the bivy (evening)



More awesome views from the bivy (morning)



On the last parts of the ridge proper



Simul climbing on the west ridge of Forbidden



One of many less-then-ideal rappels getting off of Forbidden



Home free


Gear Notes:

water filter (very useful)

Brought a picket and ice screw but did not use either.


Approach Notes:

Boston Basin, trail is good. The Bergshrund spanning the Taboo glacier directly below the South face of Torment is growing larger, we had to run it on its east end. Otherwise everything is straight forward.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes. We hit the snow field traverse late in the day and found the snow soft and easy to kick steps in. However, we did find ice under the snow in a couple of spots. Nothing really difficult, but I'm guessing that the snow field only has a few more weeks before it ices up.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the TR! :tup: we were considering it this weekend, but expect a crowd. Is there room on the bivy ledge for more an one group? Also I heard from someone who did the west ridge 4 weeks ago the moats were already getting impassable, but I guess you dont have beta for the descent rap since you downclimbed the gully which is probably out of season hence your regret on that? But I suppose everyone has to wrap into the berg and figure a way out? Thanks for the beta we may have to go for it!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The bivy ledge is very large with multiple spots to sleep. There seems to be 1 really good spot but there were a handful of others spots that looked decent. Sorry, we didn't get a good look at the bergshrund below the chimneys on the west ridge of Forbidden. It couldn't have been worse then the way we went so I bet you can find away around it, at least for another week or so.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nicely done Jordansahls!


A somewhat generic Torment-Forbidden question: most people seem to do the SW ridge rather than the South Face on Torment. Why is this? The bergschrund onto the South Face is reported as tricky late season (and was also the cite of Craig Luebben's accident, no?) but it seems like a much quicker line than the SW ridge. I guess there's also an aesthetic argument for staying true to the ridgeline.


Interested to hear any stories from the South Face...


Tofu Todd, hope to share the bivy with you this weekend! :wave:

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, basically the bergshrund on the Taboo glacier that touches the south face of Torment is super sketchy mid-late season. Last year I climbed Torment via the NW ridge and descended via the South face. The rappel off the face onto the glacier was very sketchy. The snow recedes back a significant distance from the wall and, at the time, required swinging out and off the end of the rope (we had a single rope).


As far as climbing goes, the SW ridge isn't much of a ridge. You climb up to the ridge and then scramble on the west side until you can cross over onto the south face. You are never really "on" the ridge. Still, I liked this route because it is fairly straight forward.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this