[TR] Mt. Triumph - North East Ridge 5.7 8/8/2012

[Eric T]

Trip: Mt. Triumph - North East Ridge 5.7

 

Date: 8/8/2012

 

Trip Report:

Whitney Clark and I climbed the North East Ridge of Mt. Triumph (5.7) on the 7 and 8th of August. We took the Thornton Lakes trail (2500ft) which climbs to (4900ft) and then drops down to (4500ft) at Thornton Lake. Here the trail becomes a scratch to the upper lake and then a climbers trail up to the Col at (5850ft) where we spent the night.

We overslept and didn’t leave the Col until 8am. The Glacier was in good condition and we crossed to the base of the ridge with no difficulties, where we left our ax and crampons.

After seeing the ridge we chose to solo up to the fifth class portion which was quite enjoyable. We broke the rope out for the crux pitches and swung three leads with Whitney taking the crux. We then unroped and soloed to the summit.

Weather in the form of thunder storms had been encroaching from the south all day and that made our stay at the summit brief. We down climbed back to the ridge proper and began the raps off of some of the most generous tat I have ever seen.

On the decent Whitney asked me “Eric, do you hear that buzzing?” I did hear a faint buzzing and Whitney exclaimed my “hair is standing on end.” When I looked back up, her hair was indeed standing strait out to each side. We really got a move on at that point.

Things were much better at the base of the ridge where we found water seeping from snow to drink. We the crossed the glacier back to the Col and arrived at 3:30pm making our round trip in 7 and a half hours.

Whitney told me she wished she had more Female climbing partners. If there are any tradical Women that would like to climb with Whitney PM me here and I’ll pass your info to her.

 

 

Gear Notes:

One rope, 6 cams to 2 inches, crampons and ax.

 

Approach Notes:

Thornton Lakes trail

[Peter McCorkell]

Yeah Whitney!! Nice!

[Verticolorful]

Way to go Eric and Wizz!!