Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Newman55

Glacier Peak - Late September Conditions

Recommended Posts

I'm in the early stages of planning a 3-day summit attempt on Glacier Peak.

 

We want to travel as fast and light as possible and I'm wondering what we need to bring for the mountain.

 

Right now the plan is to carry ice axes, and perhaps a 30meter rope. Not sure about crampons, will probably opt for lighter micro-spikes or yak-trax. Leaving behind pulleys, pickets, etc.

 

Any tips on snow conditions this late in the Season would be a huge help. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You will be fine with 30m rope and no pickets, but if you do have a crevasse fall you dont have any way to do a rescue. Who ever goes in must get themselves out. I have not carried pulleys in years on any mountain, so you can skip those too. Going on any peak in the cascades without crampons seems a bit silly. Why dont you just take some aluminum crampons and call it good. You are not saving that much weight, but you will be saving your ass if you get on ice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the sake of posterity...

 

We brought a 40M dry glacier rope and tied all 4 climbers to it 10m apart. (not recommended but it's the only rope we had under 60M and we didn't want the additional weight). Everyone also wore crampons and carried an ice axe and poles.

 

We spent a total of about 3.5 hours on glacier, moving quickly to avoid exposure to rock fall. there were a few crevasses open, but most were covered with thin snow-bridges. one guy climbing the previous day punched through with one leg, but he was able to climb away safely with help.

 

also a very small section of travel over small seracs and ice boulders seen below and to the left of climbers on the photo, deep cracks and crevasses underneath. total travel across this section was around 300 feet.

 

on summit at around 10:30 am, and headed back down after 30 minutes break. the snow had softened considerably but the rockfall hadn't increased at all, so we were fine.

 

we did spot a wolverine on the Cool Glacier below us, which was an awesome 1st time experience for all of us.

 

round trip from and back to Glacier Gap was around 5.5 hours.

 

glacier_peak_descent.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×