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[TR] Bugaboos - Pigeon/Bugaboo/Crescent Spires - 8/7/2012


dirtysouth
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Trip: Bugaboos - Pigeon/Bugaboo/Crescent Spires -

 

Date: 8/7/2012

 

Trip Report:

Conditions update on the Bugs.....We were up there from 8/2-8/7 and climbed several routes:

Pigeon Spire West Ridge

Bugaboo Spire Kain Route

Rest day

Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge

Crescent Spire Ears Between

All routes were snow/ice free and approaches were fast. The hike from Applebee Dome to Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col was taking about an hour, with most folks opting to go without crampons. A couple of cracks were rapidly opening up on that approach. Temps were warm that week were around 17C/63F.

IMG_3850.JPG

We actually ended up climbing the NE Ridge in t-shirts all day from 4:30am til 2:30pm back at camp. People had warned us of cold temps the week before, when everyone was climbing in their Das Parkas!

A few pics to get the stoke going.....

West Ridge of Pigeon

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NE Ridge of Bugaboo

IMG_3852.jpg

5.6 pitch on the Kain Route

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Following the first pitch on the NE Ridge

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Soaking it in!

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Throwing the ropes to rap down the Kain Route

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Rapping down from Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col

IMG_3821.JPG

 

Approach Notes:

Crampons might be more helpful as things melt out quickly and the approach routes change. Ice axe was nice for the way down the col in slushy afternoon snow.

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