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Paul_detrick

Banks LK

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

I am not stopping you or criticizing you for going climbing...

like you ever would! [Roll Eyes] i think it was you who initially egged me onto to likes of observation rock two weekends ago ... [big Grin]

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quote:

Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker:

quote:

Originally posted by erik:

quote:

Originally posted by thelawgoddess:

yeah; better stay away from banks lake. go get lost.
[Roll Eyes][Razz]

k, then.......they are steep and thin......i would rather rock climb, then climb on choss ice.............correct me ice guys.....but there are not too many moderates out there are?? last time we were over bashing, the moderate ran out fast....and ya had to sack it up for some reall fun stuff......

 

u will see me on the big blue soon enough......

 

have fun and bring your draws and crashpad.........and your helmet.....

If I bagged a trip every time there was a concern about volume of people I'd never go climbing, Its the way of the world now.

 

BTW, I'm not the only one going so back off all you haters. I'm climbing with a friend that can lead the harder shit, and beside I just want to scope out the area.

 

So if you can think of a better place to go Ice climbing fill me in......

BANFF, ILL-O-LET....

 

HYALITE CANYON

 

OURAY

 

INTERIOR BC

 

CHAMONIX

 

N CASCADES

 

ALASKA

 

SIERRA HIGH COUNTRY

 

YOU NEED MORE IDEAS????

 

HOW ABOUT SAWTOOTH RANGE?

 

TETONS??

 

THEN THERE IS ALSO THE GLACIER NP!!

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ALSO SOUNDS AS IF THE ICE IN THE VOLCANOS IS GOOD TOO!!!

 

NE USA.....

 

HIMALAYAS.

 

S AMERICA

 

???? MORE>???

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quote:

Originally posted by erik:

ice aint shit unless u lead......

Agreed. Top-roping is enjoyable, and a good way to build the necessary skills, but when you lead ice you're playing a very different game. Once someone has lead a pitch or two of ice at the boundaries of their skills, strength, and confidence their perception of the activity seems to change dramatically. At least that's what I noticed when my friends and I took it up.

 

Anyone else recall what they felt and or any changes in their perception of ice climbing after their first stiff lead?

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quote:

Originally posted by JayB:

Agreed. Top-roping is enjoyable, and a good way to build the necessary skills, but when you lead ice you're playing a very different game. Once someone has lead a pitch or two of ice at the boundaries of their skills, strength, and confidence their perception of the activity seems to change dramatically. At least that's what I noticed when my friends and I took it up.

I had led 5 pitches of waterfall ice before I had the luxury of following or top-roping ice. Although,I can't reccommend this approach, the learning curve is very steep. It has always been [Eek!] scary. Not quite sure why I am still alive.

quote:

Anyone else recall what they felt and or any changes in their perception of ice climbing after their first stiff lead?

Hopeless, full-on addiction. [big Grin]

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quote:

Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

quote:

Originally posted by JayB:

Agreed. Top-roping is enjoyable, and a good way to build the necessary skills, but when you lead ice you're playing a very different game. Once someone has lead a pitch or two of ice at the boundaries of their skills, strength, and confidence their perception of the activity seems to change dramatically. At least that's what I noticed when my friends and I took it up.

I had led 5 pitches of waterfall ice before I had the luxury of following or top-roping ice. Although,I can't reccommend this approach, the learning curve is very steep. It has always been
[Eek!]
scary. Not quite sure why I am still alive.

quote:

Anyone else recall what they felt and or any changes in their perception of ice climbing after their first stiff lead?

Hopeless, full-on addiction.
[big Grin]
Mitch, I knew you couldn't stay away from this one [Wink] Though scary as hell and really unsafe, trial by fire is how i've often learned. Probably not the best idea for vertical water ice though.

 

Erik, WHY ARE YOU ALWAYS YELLING? SEE YOU TONIGHT.

 

[ 11-05-2002, 01:45 PM: Message edited by: COL. Von Spanker ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

Originally posted by JayB:

QUOTE]I had led 5 pitches of waterfall ice before I had the luxury of following or top-roping ice. Although,I can't reccommend this approach, the learning curve is very steep. It has always been
[Eek!]
scary.

Same. Sort of. For me it went like this:

 

Helen Hunt Falls: 1 pitch WI2+ (CO Springs)

Hully Gully: Two pitches: WI 3/4 (CO Springs)

Pitkin Falls: One pitch: WI4 (Vail)

 

Then I took an honest look at how sketch I was on the latter two (and the aftermath of a potential deathfall at Pitkin) and concluded that my ambition had overcome my judgement and that I'd need to scale things back, get in a lot of mileage on WI3ish stuff, and get solid before getting on anything that steep again. I think I lead two or three pitches in the WI3+/WI4-range last year and spent the rest of my time of lower angled stuff. That felt about right. We'll see how things go this year and in the years to come.

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quote:

Originally posted by haireball:

It has been my experience that we get quicker ice formation when it warms into the teens and snows a lot...

Wind and snow often help with ice formation. The snow falling into water makes instant frazil. The frazil builds micro dams. The resultant ice will be lumpy. Ever notice that a fresh icicle will be ribbed? That's the dams formed from frazil. Ice is cool stuff, figuratively too.

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quote:

Originally posted by JayB:

Anyone else recall what they felt and or any changes in their perception of ice climbing after their first stiff lead?

Yep. I perceived that I needed a change of underwear.

 

-Loren

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quote:

Originally posted by CascadeClimber:

quote:

Originally posted by JayB:

Anyone else recall what they felt and or any changes in their perception of ice climbing after their first stiff lead?

Yep. I perceived that I needed a change of underwear.

 

-Loren

I wanted to stab my partner to death with his dull ass rusty screws that he paid 5 bucks each for... [Mad][big Grin]

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quote:

Anyone else recall what they felt and or any changes in their perception of ice climbing after their first stiff lead?

first stiff lead *was* my first WI ice climb. something like WI4 -- definitely near-vertical. fell placing a screw and whipped 30+ft. and almost decked. bent the screw i fell on a good 50degrees when the surface ice plated off...thank god it held cause any real medical help was a long way off.

probly one of the dummest things i've ever done, but i was 3+ months into 4+ months of 24-hr-a-day darkness in antarctica and needed some excitement. and the ice was the wall of the most astonishing cravasse i've ever seen. we'd lined the bottom of the cravasse with coleman lanterns and it was just all lit up 'n' shiny and gorgeous, begging to be climbed. just couldn't resist...

anyhow, my change in perception was: get in some damn time in WI2+,3,3+...before hitting the vertical!

DOH!

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I top roped a lot of ice before I started leading. My first leads came in Lee Vining. My first lead was The Right Side WI3/4 with my second lead being Chouinard Falls WI4. That was my limit and until I start ice climbing on a more regular basis, I don't see myself leading any hard than that. I have followed WI5 before and knowing what I know now about leading, I don't think I could do it. At least not until I become more efficient at placing screws! Enjoy the early ice. I'll wait until January. There is still plenty of rock to be climbed for me!

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You must not have read my post Right, I said ice WAS STARTING TO FORM, the only route in is the punchbowl and it was not great, just the left side. You are all wellcome to come out but I would wait til some stuff forms. I will keep you posted if you like. If you do come out bring your rock gear and try those routes there. About a mile past the punchbowl on the left. There's a pullout and its a short walk.

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I think eric is just jealous, cause you guys have swung ice tools this season and he hasn't... [big Grin]

 

banks lake kicks as, you should go. If the Punch Bowl is crowded just look around and you'll find another good spot.

 

[ 11-05-2002, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

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NOPE I AM GOING ROCK CLIMBING IN THE DESERT SW FOR THE NEXT MONTH....

 

FAR AWAYS FROM THE SCRATHY THIN ICE.....

 

I HAVE PAITENCE AND CAN WAIT FOR WHEN IT IS FUN AND NOT SUCH A CHOOSY MIND FUCK.......

 

MY BITCH IS NOT THE CROWDS ONE BIT, WE ARE ALL PART OF THE CROWD AND ANY PERSON SAYING DIFFERENT IS A SELFISH MORON...

 

MY BITCH LIES WITH EVERYONE GETTIN OVER EXCITED ABOUT...HAVE PAITENCE...IT IS A VIRTURE THAT WILL YILED TEN FOLD.....

 

SAVE YOUR GAS MONEY......

 

PEOPLE GET SOOOO EXCITED PREMATURLY ABOUT ICE AND SNOW.....IT WILL COME AND IF DOESNT, YOU ARE NOT LET DOWN.......

 

I DUNNO...MAYBE I AM TOO JADED AND WORK OUT FOR MY AGE....

 

MAKE SURE YOU WEAR YOUR BRAIN BUCKETS AND DONT CLIMB UNDER/OVER OTHER PEOPLE......

 

I HEAR SKULL IMPLAMENT BLOWS.....

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quote:

Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker:

quote:

Originally posted by TimL:

YOu forgot Cascade Crags! I heard they have the best, most reliable ice around.

Really? I'll have to check it out. Is it in any guide books?

not in any guidebooks. i'd be happy to show you where it is, though. kind of tricky navigating, but i've been there before and am fairly certain of my abilities to make it out there again. that's where i learned how to ice climb! [Razz]

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quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

I think eric is just jealous, cause you guys have swung ice tools this season and he hasn't...
[big Grin]

BONE,

 

ICE IS LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE.......I LIKE IT ALL PRETTY MUCH EQUALLY...THOUGH I PREFER TO HAVE MY FILL WITH FAT BLUE ICE....

 

I COULD HAVE CLIMBED AS SOON AS EVERYONE ELSE......BUT I CHOOSE TO BIDE MY TIME.......

 

HACK AWAY FOOLS.......

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quote:

Originally posted by erik:

MY BITCH LIES WITH EVERYONE GETTIN OVER EXCITED ABOUT...HAVE PAITENCE...IT IS A VIRTURE THAT WILL YILED TEN FOLD.....

 

SAVE YOUR GAS MONEY......

 

PEOPLE GET SOOOO EXCITED PREMATURLY ABOUT ICE AND SNOW.....IT WILL COME AND IF DOESNT, YOU ARE NOT LET DOWN.......

 

....

Dude fuck that, theres Ice out there, just cause you aren't exited doesn't meen other people shouldn't be.

 

I think ice climbing spawns a different type of exitement with climber because it is such a temporary thing. If you don't go get it it's just...gone.

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quote:

Originally posted by erik:

quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

I think eric is just jealous, cause you guys have swung ice tools this season and he hasn't...
[big Grin]

BONE,

 

ICE IS LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE.......I LIKE IT ALL PRETTY MUCH EQUALLY...THOUGH I PREFER TO HAVE MY FILL WITH FAT BLUE ICE....

 

I COULD HAVE CLIMBED AS SOON AS EVERYONE ELSE......BUT I CHOOSE TO BIDE MY TIME.......

 

HACK AWAY FOOLS.......

whatever [Roll Eyes] have fun biding you're time.

 

Although I agree, be gentle on the forming ice, hook,hook,hook...

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