TeleRoss Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Trip: The Needles - Don Juan Wall Date: 7/27/2012 Trip Report: I just had to go back...the climbing is too good! I love the Needles! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/319366_10150924408607757_1029782228_n.jpg[/img] Trish was all envious that I went back to the Needles...so we made plans to head back together. A quick trip, we only had two days to climb, but made the most of it. The first day we climbed a sweet little had crack called Sleight of Hand, a rope stretching 10a) [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/558299_10150924409072757_1342842045_n.jpg[/img] Then I took Trish up her first 5.11, a really thin corner called The Raven (11b) Trish stoked on her fist 11 [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/562720_10150924404257757_851415098_n.jpg[/img] To finish off the day we did Gem Stone, a fun arete layback on Charlatan. After that, we had lunch on the summit, stashed our gear and hiked back to camp for cold beers and some relaxation. The next day we hopped on the Don Juan Wall (5p. 11b)...one of the classics in the Needles. The first pitch follows Thin Ice for about 30' before moving left on a huge flake/ledge thingy. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/382372_10150826783372757_1326907210_n.jpg[/img] The second pitch climbs a steep funky corner and then over a bulge via some nicely flaring off fingers jams. Looking up the second pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/539076_10150924407557757_1362531450_n.jpg[/img] Almost to the crux [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/483161_10150924409392757_1476092919_n.jpg[/img] Over the crux...whew! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/524124_10150924409492757_1148242819_n.jpg[/img] Trish following [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/527044_10150924405232757_736012067_n.jpg[/img] Looking up the third pitch...a classic Needles v-slot...very strenuous [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/488075_10150924404772757_106897848_n.jpg[/img] One of the only moments of reprieve on the whole climb [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/481986_10150924409582757_156782770_n.jpg[/img] Trish in the slot [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/530184_10150924405987757_700191387_n.jpg[/img] Lovin' it! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/557521_10150924406107757_1817695218_n.jpg[/img] Looking up...yep...another steep, THIN, Needles corner..sooo good! [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/391466_10150924405837757_1879741021_n.jpg[/img] Trish exiting to where the angle finally relents a bit [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/578771_10150924406237757_847895358_n.jpg[/img] Taking a break [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/564494_10150924406382757_2123332792_n.jpg[/img] The last pitch climbs a burly roof via physical undercling and laybacking around the roof, changes corners and climbs a sweet finger crack to the awesome summit of the Sorcerer Trish topping out. [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/376751_10150924406612757_1341912470_n.jpg[/img] Stoked! [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/207537_10150924406792757_1665299386_n.jpg[/img] I had heard so much about this climb and how good it is...and it is indeed very good...but maybe my expectation was too high going in, but I though that both The Entity and Spook Book over on the Witch were better, more interesting climbs. Don Juan is more continuously difficult and more strenuous for sure, but I found that the quality of climbing was below what I found on those other two Needles uber-classics. Just my $0.02 Gear Notes: typical Needles rack: multiples from ultra micro brass-#2Camalot Approach Notes: 3 miles along easy ridge, a bit of scrambling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 well done! favorite place to free climb by far. i think don juan is on my top 5 list, the exit move around that roof is just plain cool! good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Atlantis is NEXT. Nice work!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezra Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Stellar rock, stellar pics, looks like a great time!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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