TeleRoss Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Trip: The Needles - Spook Book Date: 7/16/2012 Trip Report: Well, I didn't get enough of the Needles on my first trip there, so I had to go back. I had been talking up the routes there to Jason, so he was keen to come on down and see what I was blabbering on about. He flew in to San Diego Sunday morning and we made the long drive up to the Needles that afternoon. Having not climbed really at all since he was in J-Tree in March, Jason was stoked to hop on something easy to get reacquainted with the rock, so the first thing we got on was Airy Interlude. I had climbed it a few weeks prior so Jason got both leads. Super fun...again. Satisfied that he could still climb after a long layoff, we got on Wailing Banshees (4p. 11b), which climbs a long left facing corner on the Sorcerer. I combined the first two pitches, and after much bird and bat shit, and some crap rock thrown in, we decided to find something better to climb. So, we headed over to Bad Fortune (2p. 11c)...yet another steep thin Needles corner. Techy stemming and some fun face moves were the goods on this one...good fun. Then next day we set off on Spook Book (5p. 10dR). One of the Needles more notorious and sandbagged routes. While the climbing is never difficult, it is definitely heady and devious with committing moves way out over fiddly small gear. Looking up the first pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/480089_10150883047027757_560991778_n.jpg[/img] First pitch is heady, as you will hit the sloping ledge if you botch the step up move onto a small knob to reach a high bolt. Not a particularly difficult move, just dont blow it. The rest of the pitch is fun climbing on steep slab and some cracks here and there. Jason following [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/560939_10150883047847757_315847741_n.jpg[/img] Looking up the second pitch [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/179163_10150883047652757_1868789289_n.jpg[/img] Pitch two follows a thin corner, over an overlap, and up into another corner. Tricky small gear, and fun moves on this one. Near the top, the corner pinches shut and instead of going the correct way...unbeknownst to me at the time...I continued with some desperate smearing and stemming up the blank corner...until I whipped...pulling a tiny cam and two miniature pieces of brass until a bomber placement finally held. hahaha...good times! After another try, Jason finally decided to point out my folly at continuing up the corner, and we finally dispatched of that pitch. Yet another stellar Needles corner on the Spook Book [img:center]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/402778_10150883048447757_354414498_n.jpg[/img] More sweet splitter corner cracks followed, this time going much easier...although graded harder...I suppose actually following the route helps. Jason loving the goods [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/399485_10150883048972757_548508581_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/534575_10150883049252757_1926988159_n.jpg[/img] Stellar climb! Definitely will be back for more! Sorcerer standing proud [img:center]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/426916_10150883048287757_415759888_n.jpg[/img] Gear Notes: multiples, micro-#2camalot Approach Notes: 3miles along an easy ridge, a bit of scrambling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 dude! now ur just rubbing it in! the crux move on that thing feels so good! again, well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezra Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Sweet pics!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squiddo Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Great read, looks amazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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