[TR] Squamish - Borderline 7/30/2012

[eldiente]

Trip: Squamish - Borderline

 

Date: 7/30/2012

 

Trip Report:

Nice little romp up 6-7 pitches of Squamish Granite. You can do the route and rap or continue on up and join up with Angles Crest or for double fun, finish on High Plains Drifter. Not the best route in Squish but good enough and a good way to bypass crowds on Angles Crest.

 

Here's what we found.

 

P1.5.10. Trick slab move/no hands thingy to gain the first bolt. Falling getting to the bolt would be kind ugly. After a few bolted slab moves, move left into nice corner system.

 

P2. 5.10 More corner action. jugs and flakes. Move right on hand traverse rail and just like every other route in Squamish, grab a tree.

 

P3.5.10D

P45.10

Link together for 65 meters. My lead. (Thanks Jaime) Airy exposure and about five bolts of hard 5.10 slab gets the pitch started. Although the moves are slab, the wall is actually vertical. Huh. Falls are clean into space go for it. After clipping bolts move left into finger crack that feels a bit like the Exasperator. Perfect locks! I someone how missed the bolted belay at the end of the finger crack and kept on moving up P4. Exciting times as I had one #1 cam to protect 20 meters of climbing. Sort of hard roof move at the end of P4, keep that #1 cam handy when pulling the bulge. Super fun link.

P5. 5.10OW. Hard bolt protected 8" OW. Short pitch but a real thrash for life. Bolts are close together.

P6. 5.10D. Short pitch, all bolts. Bouldery slab moves to bolted anchor.

P7. Move left through woods and some dirty 5.8 terrain to join Angles Crest somewhere around P6 of that route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

P1 Looks kind green but gets good.

 

 

P2 Jaime on lead in the corner.

 

 

Old Man Jaime B still climbs harder then you.

 

 

 

 

 

Approach via downwind sailing, head back home via upwind sailing.

 

 

And rainbows will always come out.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Double Rack, Red BD C3-#3 BD. Extra finger pieces for finger crack pitch. Didn't need any nuts. 70M rope required if linking P3 and P4.

 

Approach Notes:

Sherif's Badge sign. Easy trail. 20 minutes.

[counterfeitfake]

Borderline is so great! One of my favorites.

 

Was linking into AC easy to figure out?

[eldiente]

Linking into Angles Crest was mellow. At the top of the last pitch of Borderline follow 4th class ramp left (moss) There was one bolt there and a fixed hand line. Walk 100 feet left through woods. You'll keep moving left on low 5th class terrain, very dirty and lose rock for about 100 feet before rejoining with Angles Crest. You'll know you're on Angles Crest as the rock instantly gets better.

 

-Nate