brucemaclachlan Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 A few of us are heading up there in September and so.... - Any free places to camp anyone knows about? - Any sport locations that are rather splendid - 5.8 to 5.10 range. - Any locations that are toprope-able? I've looked through the Rock Climbing Washington book but thought I'd see what other info and advice is out there. Thanks for any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 Don't leave a single item of value in your car and if you have two cars, take your crappy one. Squamish and Tieton are the two most car break-in prone climbing areas within 500 miles of Seattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 There is lots of free camping at the Tieton. Almost every road going north off the highway has nice pullouts. In sept you may be competing with hunters for them. There are also some nice spots across the river from the highway, accessed from a road heading west that starts just after the highway crosses a bridge to the south side of the river. Have heard the chunkyard is mostly easy sport stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockyroad Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Lava point has some great sport climbs as does the caves though they are some pretty hard climbs for their grade. The royal columns are nice trad climbs but many of them can be set up for TR. Like was said before, there are many spots for free camping, such as the pull out on the opposite side of the road from the moon rocks/chunkyard and up at lava point is a pretty awesome spot to camp with views of Rimrock lake. I hope this helps.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockyroad Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 And for what it is worth, I have never had a problem with vehicle break ins and I have lived and climbed here for 2 years. If you are in the town of Yakima that is a different story, but in the Tieton Canyon that kind of thing is not prevalent.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Don't leave a single item of value in your car and if you have two cars, take your crappy one. Squamish and Tieton are the two most car break-in prone climbing areas within 500 miles of Seattle. Not discounting any bad experience you've had, but that's a pretty strong statement. Over the years, there have been rashes of break-ins at Index, Leavy (Snow Creek parking lot), and Exit 38 on a far greater scale than anything I've ever heard of in the Tieton. I've likely spent as many, if not more, days climbing in the Tieton as anyone (especially if you include cleaning days) and I've yet to have a single issue. Not that that means a damn thing the next time I park there... Back to the original post, check out the Chunkyard (just east of Moon Rocks), where there are about a dozen routes in the 5.8/9 to 5.10 range. The rock looks like absolute crap, but try the climbing before you move on. There are a few shorter 5.10 and under sport routes at the Cave, although the better routes are all 5.11s. Lava Point is a good option, with a quite a few fun 5.10s. Finally, there are some newer (not in the guide) routes in the 5.9/.10 range at South Fork, although again, most of the better routes are a bit harder. None of these are easily accessible for setting up TRs. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I'll vouch for the Chunkyard, good fun, moderate routes, and quite solid. Right nearby, Moon Rocks is relatively well set up for top ropes, thanks to Andy's anchor work if I recall correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Right nearby, Moon Rocks is relatively well set up for top ropes Yeah, it's easy to access most of the top anchors at MR. Also, at the Royal Columns, Columns Holiday (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/columns-holiday/107588465), Stress Management (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/stress-management/105922227), and The Arete-Acal (new full length version, http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-arete-acal/107115398) are easily TR'd 5.10 face climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Never had any break ins or problems in tieton. I can vouch for chunkyard for fun cragging. I'd highly recommend lava point but especially dream wall of that area. also the south fork is super fun and in sept will be prime time. the cave and oasis are mediocre as well. have fun. and as said, free camping on any and every forest road, including areas right next to south fork and lava point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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