Kerr Adams Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Hey everyone! I am hoping to go through Yosemite on my way back home. I really don't have enough rock protection to do any aid climbing but would still like to do some sort of big wall. Could anyone recommend something? I am pretty unfamiliar with the valley and didn't really see anything on mountain project that caught my eye. 10+ pitches of around 5.7 would be awesome! Thanks a million, Kerr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcg Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 You might want to head up to Tuolumne Meadows instead of climbing down in the valley. There is no "big wall" climbing there that I am aware of, but there are tons of moderate routes you can do without aid. It is almost entirely trad, the rock can't get any better, it's 15 degrees cooler than the valley, it's not a circus like the valley, and you can roll into the campground in the morning and find a spot without a reservation. If you should decide to do this, pick up a copy of the Supertopo book, Tuolumne Free Climbs. Also, drive up 395 to Lee Vinning instead of entering Yosemite from the west. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerr Adams Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 thanks! ill check that out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montypiton Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 Royal Arches -- classic easy (5.6?) "wall" is a popular "first wall". East Buttress El Cap -- Willi Unsoeld and Allen Steck in ancient times - a route on the Captain that goes free at about 5.7, except for one 5.10 move at the bottom easily bypassed via the "silver handhold" method. Both are fun,forgiving,classic introductions to the size/exposure of the Valley's big routes. Both are long days - either may dictate a bivvy if you're not efficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 Royal Arches -- classic easy (5.6?) "wall" is a popular "first wall". East Buttress El Cap -- Willi Unsoeld and Allen Steck in ancient times - a route on the Captain that goes free at about 5.7, except for one 5.10 move at the bottom easily bypassed via the "silver handhold" method. Both are fun,forgiving,classic introductions to the size/exposure of the Valley's big routes. Both are long days - either may dictate a bivvy if you're not efficient. royal arches sounds a better fit for this ole'boy, but holy shee-it, the way you describe it, maybe even i could climb the east butt of ze cap-i-tan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 Pfft, of course you could Ivan. Back to the original question, seems like if it's too hot right in the valley, instead of staying the the sun all day (and they are good choices up thread it seems to me) maybe the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral or Braille Book might be in order. No one has mentioned Snake Dike, that would be another good one. Maybe 10 pitches, only 2 are 5.7, long hike to get it. Not "walls" per see, still long routes that kick ass and are fun and in your range. You don't say how much protection you have, but certainly Snake Dike should be in there:-). One of my fiends remembers which 2 pieces it takes and the rest is draws or slings. I think it's a something like a #7 wired nut and a 3/4" range cam, but I usually take a handful in that range and don't (want to) remember exact pieces. Snake Dike has the added bonus of being a great hike, amazing summit and unusual but super fun route as well. it's usually 10-15 degrees cooler up there than in the valley, so if its hot, maybe start hiking like at 4am or so. Just going to touleme is a good idea if it's real hot below. Anyway, theres some more options. Hey everyone! I am hoping to go through Yosemite on my way back home. I really don't have enough rock protection to do any aid climbing but would still like to do some sort of big wall. Could anyone recommend something? I am pretty unfamiliar with the valley and didn't really see anything on mountain project that caught my eye. 10+ pitches of around 5.7 would be awesome! Thanks a million, Kerr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerr Adams Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 Pfft, of course you could Ivan. Back to the original question, seems like if it's too hot right in the valley, instead of staying the the sun all day (and they are good choices up thread it seems to me) maybe the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral or Braille Book might be in order. No one has mentioned Snake Dike, that would be another good one. Maybe 10 pitches, only 2 are 5.7, long hike to get it. Not "walls" per see, still long routes that kick ass and are fun and in your range. You don't say how much protection you have, but certainly Snake Dike should be in there:-). One of my fiends remembers which 2 pieces it takes and the rest is draws or slings. I think it's a something like a #7 wired nut and a 3/4" range cam, but I usually take a handful in that range and don't (want to) remember exact pieces. Snake Dike has the added bonus of being a great hike, amazing summit and unusual but super fun route as well. it's usually 10-15 degrees cooler up there than in the valley, so if its hot, maybe start hiking like at 4am or so. Just going to touleme is a good idea if it's real hot below. Anyway, theres some more options. Thanks! I've been looking at snake dike actually. i'd like something a little more sustained in terms of grade but it seems like a fun route. As far as gear goes... I have a full set of TCU's, .5-2 camalot. Hey everyone! I am hoping to go through Yosemite on my way back home. I really don't have enough rock protection to do any aid climbing but would still like to do some sort of big wall. Could anyone recommend something? I am pretty unfamiliar with the valley and didn't really see anything on mountain project that caught my eye. 10+ pitches of around 5.7 would be awesome! Thanks a million, Kerr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froodish Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Cathedral Peak + Eichorn's Pinnacle makes a fine outing this time of year (although crowds can be intense.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 South Face of North Dome 5.7 would be a good outing, some of the best rock in the valley. To get a big wall feel, climb the arches with a light pack perhaps bivy sacs instead of sleeping bags, sleep on top of the royal arches and send north dome in the am. Or just knock the whole thing out in a day just a suggestion cause the rock on north dome is soooooooooo good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mneagle Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Check out the Arrowhead Spire and Arrowhead Arête. The spire goes at ~5.5 and the Arête goes at 5.8. It protects well and has very good rock. After climbing the spire, you rap into the notch and avoid the first dirty pitch of the Arête. From the top, it's an exciting walk over the backbone of the Arête to the back of the gulley, with some hiking and a few rapells back to your packs. It's a fantastic route that is surprisingly seldom done. For a more low key climb without an approach and with an easy downclimb, show up early and get in line for Nutcracker. Note: If you want to see if you can climb 5.8 in Yosemite, most believe the second pitch of Bishop's Terrace in the Church Bowl to be the standard. For 5.7, I'd recommend the first pitch of Jamcrack. For 5.9, get on The Central Pillar of Frenzy or Committment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 If you want big and are willing to hike go do the W Ridge of Conness. It's 5.6 forever in an amazing position. Best to be acclimated to the altitude before this trip as it involves approaching from 9k to 12k, dropping back down to 10k, climbing the ridge to the summit (nearly 12.4k) and then returning to the car at 9k. Tis a long day, but a great one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 South Face of North Dome 5.7 would be a good outing, some of the best rock in the valley. To get a big wall feel, climb the arches with a light pack perhaps bivy sacs instead of sleeping bags, sleep on top of the royal arches and send north dome in the am. Or just knock the whole thing out in a day just a suggestion cause the rock on north dome is soooooooooo good Second this suggestion. Did it in a day bringing bivy gear and slept at the top. We enjoyed amazing views of halfdome and the valley at night as well as never seeing another person (after royal arches of course). One of the best bivies ever. Then you can hike to the top of the falls and drop right back down to camp 4 afterwards for a good tour of the area. The route on North dome is spectacular as well, interesting climbing in a great location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Royal Arches -- classic easy (5.6?) "wall" is a popular "first wall". East Buttress El Cap -- Willi Unsoeld and Allen Steck in ancient times - a route on the Captain that goes free at about 5.7, except for one 5.10 move at the bottom easily bypassed via the "silver handhold" method. Both are fun,forgiving,classic introductions to the size/exposure of the Valley's big routes. Both are long days - either may dictate a bivvy if you're not efficient. east buttress is a little harder than 5.7... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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