[TR] Prusik Peak - West Ridge 7/8/2012

[RaisedByPikas]

Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge

 

Date: 7/8/2012

 

Trip Report:

Ben, Luke, Brian and I tried Prusik peak again this time with much better weather for Luke and myself. We approached via Aasgard Pass and made camp near Gnome Tarn where a herd of 10 goats joined us for the evening hoping to score some fresh piss.

 

How many goats in this picture?

 

The climb went great and was uneventful except for a few minutes dealing with a stuck rope on the final rappel. We got started climbing around 6AM and were on top by 8:30AM doing the climb in 5 pitches. No gear anchors were neccesary as you can sling rocks for all of the anchors or use a rap station after the first pitch. The slab crux was pretty easy, there are lots of little depressions to put your feet. I personally thought the hardest part of the climb was pulling over the top of the dihedral at the start of the final pitch. (the one to get up to the big ledge before the lieback flake). The others stayed towards the outside of the easier summit chimney (the one around the corner) while I decided for a more intimate climbing experience by getting a little deeper. Face South for this chimney unless you want to spin yourself around near the top. Descent was 3 double rope raps off the north side. The last one probably didnt need to be a double.

 

Thanks to Luke and Brian for the pictures.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Set of nuts, cams to 3". The #3 is only used on the lieback so if you are comfortable with those you can leave it at home.

 

Approach Notes:

Aasgard pass was mostly snow free

Edited August 1, 2012 by RaisedByPikas

[Tyson.g]

I've got to get up that one of these days.

Thanks for the TR.