jja Posted March 25, 2002 Share Posted March 25, 2002 Had to go one more time to use my new tools (thanks to whoever posted the deal on quarks at northernmountain.com). warm weather, sun, and ice climbing - gotta love spring. rambles - all the pitches on the two first climbs are in and fairly fat. The only thin spot was the rock notch on the second pitch of the first climb - it made for a ballsy first ice lead for wayne (only his second time on ice). the tube (?) - the pillar real close to the road (just after a diagonal culvert), was in. carl's berg - looked real thin and chandeliered but was climbed on Saturday by Tony and Mike from seattle (broke a pick on lead). Honeyman Falls and cherry ice - looked in from 99N on the way out of Lillooet. Synchronicity - most of it looked in. Marble Canyon - can you say wet? After about 4 laps on tr the ropes were absolutely soaked - pretty wild how a belay device can become a faucet as the rope runs through it. The lake had about an inch of water on the ice. wayne is thin and crossed the lake, I'm fat and walked around. waite for spring - real thin at the bottom, but plenty of ice higher. deeping wall - actually fairly fat on the left side with one spot touching down. icy bc - sounded like a freight train with all the water running behind it, through it, and on top of it. Didn't stop Tony and Mike from leading it though. - john & wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted March 25, 2002 Share Posted March 25, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jja: carl's berg - looked real thin and chandeliered but was climbed on Saturday by Tony and Mike from seattle (broke a pick on lead). It was Tom and Mark, not Tony and Mike Who says Cobra Picks don't break? The climb was good in the morning, but was getting wet as we departed. Plenty thick enough, with good ice and features. quote: Originally posted by jja: icy bc - sounded like a freight train with all the water running behind it, through it, and on top of it. Didn't stop Tony and Mike from leading it though.- john & wayne A wetsuit would have been more appropriate clothing. Mostly the water was on the surface, but it was a huge amount. Call it good adversity training! This climb was as fat and well formed as I've seen it all year, however...for all of Lillooet, the weather now is so warm, the sun so intense, and there is so much running water I don't give it long before things start collapsing. In fact the only thing that made this weekend doable was that friday was the first above freezing weather in 10 days. I think this might be the curtain call...but then, I've said that before. [ 03-25-2002: Message edited by: W ] [ 03-25-2002: Message edited by: W ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted March 25, 2002 Share Posted March 25, 2002 Synchronicity - large section missing low down by Sunday PM. Lots of snow slides including one out onto the Duffy Lake road. Reason enough not to try Loose Lady, Night n Gale etc. Everything else super wet and melting fast; Marble, the Rambles, Carls Berg. Some of the higher lines in Bridge would be OK if there's anything left after the snow has slid off. Could well be it for the year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted March 26, 2002 Author Share Posted March 26, 2002 Tom and Mark, Tony and Mike - sounds kind of close doesn't it? ... sorry guys I agree, this was probably the last weekend, just glad we found something to climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 28, 2002 Share Posted March 28, 2002 Like the Wicked witch of the West sez, "Iiiiiiii'mmmmmm mmmmmmmmellllltinnngggg!" Time to dig out those things with rubber that you wear on your feet and put the monopoint crampons away till July (when the snow burns off and its glacial ice time). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted March 28, 2002 Share Posted March 28, 2002 [ 03-28-2002: Message edited by: CascadeClimber ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted March 28, 2002 Share Posted March 28, 2002 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 28, 2002 Share Posted March 28, 2002 Oh well, for Seattleites, its at least two hours shorter driving to Squamish vs driving to Lillooet, yes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted March 29, 2002 Share Posted March 29, 2002 True, but then we miss out on the that lovely and scenic country road from Lytton to Lillooet. And what about the incessant drizzle, and bevy of tractor-trailer rigs screaming out of the fog on Canada 1? Squamish may be fun, but the drive to Lillooet is an adventure unto itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 29, 2002 Share Posted March 29, 2002 What are you talking about? Lillooet is just a quick swim up the Fraser River for me. Oh, I almost forgot- nobody swims like Aquaman. The only time I've ever had to go there was recently, when the Joker was chucking rocks down at cars on the road. Biggest ass-kicking I've given that bastard yet. Fuck Lillooet, and piss on you all. I've got crime to fight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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