Jump to content

[TR] Eastern Sierras - U-Notch / Chimney /North Palisade 7/14/2012


burchey

Recommended Posts

Trip: Eastern Sierras - U-Notch / Chimney /North Palisade

 

Date: 7/14/2012

 

Trip Report:

Following a few days of thunderstorms and a stretch of warm days, we threw judgment to the wind and headed up the 395 towards glorious alpine ice routes in the Palisades, just west of Big Pine, CA. Stories, gear, and bodily fluids were exchanged at the overnight parking lot around 7700 feet or so. Intended goal was North Pal by way of the U-notch couloir and the 2 pitch chimney. Lazy morning led to a 12 mile schlep up the north fork of the Big Pine creek. Water was plentiful all the way up to the glacier.

 

We passed the turquoise waters of the lakes below temple crag around 10,000

 

529385_335499459867796_31296563_n.jpg

 

headed up the Sam Mack Meadow around 11,000 and decided on the standard route to the glacier after inspecting the snow in the chutes at the southwest end of the meadow.

 

548081_335499546534454_1931644700_n.jpg

 

We left the trail above Sam Mack and headed across mounds of Moraine and snow up to the flat boulder just above the glacial lake at 12,200ish.

 

256421_3960425722991_501347633_o.jpg

 

Water was gathered (and treated upon discovery of an odd film on the water and the bug-corpse-floatilla ), dinner was consumed before sweating the night away in my 32 degree bag.

 

527890_335499769867765_1088861188_n.jpg

 

We'd heard tales of rock coming down the U-notch, but hadn't heard a peep out of it all afternoon or through the evening. Up at 1 am, we decided to give it a shot, hoping the early morning would afford the cooler temps to stave off rockfall, and we'd be down before the possible t-storms that hit this area in the summer afternoons.

 

482008_335499819867760_375903960_n.jpg

 

The mile or so and 800 feet to the mouth of the U-notch passed more quickly than we anticipated, even with the sketchy boulder slope traverse above the lake before you reach the toe of the glacier. Water ran over the surface into trenches scored by the running melt on its way to the lake. We found a flattish spot about 75 feet below the U-notch, flaked ropes and racked gear before we headed up to the bergschrund. At that moment, in the mostly-dark of the early morning, we heard a far off rumble to our right and way up high. It grew into a deafening rattle of rock down the Clyde Couloir, boulders sparking off the sides of the chute, landing in the snow and ice and setting off a huge plume of white that we could just make out in the dark.

 

The chute above us leading to the U-notch and North Palisade sat silently, waiting on us to make a decision. We decided this route wasn't worth the risk - it was too warm and the recent rains high up probably loosened up some treats above us. We packed it up and headed back down the glacier to camp - short nap and some snacks made the 11-12 mile hike out that much more bearable.

 

 

V-notch, U-notch, and Clyde Couloir above the Palisade Glacier.

 

DSC_00213.jpg

 

 

Gear Notes:

Didn't use it: took 60m half ropes, stubbies, draws, handful of nuts and cams. 2 tools.

 

Approach Notes:

11-12 miles to the notch from TH. Water plentiful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 5
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

FWIW: Feel free to contact Mammoth Mountaineering, Sierra Mountain Center, or Sierra Mountain Guides for the latest conditions. They're happy to share. When I lived in Bishop, that big dark streak down the U-Notch was the sure sign that its season was over. If you absolutely want to climb ice, send me a pm and I'll recommend a few routes to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man, thanks for the TR and info, we were debating on making the pilgrimage all the way to the Palisades, but it looks as though the season on the Notches may be over earlier than later this year! Is early September an average 'in condition' time to attempt these routes?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Berg, this is really the first season I've even paid attention to alpine ice, so I can't speak for other years other than the research I've done. This was a pretty dry year, so the ice came/went pretty early. My understanding is that late Aug/early Sept is about average, as you say.

 

I'm still holding out some hope for early fall and the V-notch...keeping my eyes on it, but not holding my breath.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...