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Raoul Duke

[TR] Rainier - Liberty Ridge 7/15/2012

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Trip: Rainier - Liberty Ridge


Date: 7/15/2012


Trip Report:

Climbed a slightly boney Liberty Ridge from July 13-15.


The path through the Carbon Glacier involves some tricky snow bridge work in a couple of spots, and we accessed the ridge from its left side, gaining about 750 vertical feet on rock before moving onto the snow on the ridge's right side that led to Thumb Rock; there was some rock fall here that kept us moving quickly upward. We felt pretty committed at this point given the difficulties of the Carbon and the lower ridge.


Above Thumb rock the route was in good, icy shape: we were very happy to have technical tools, and rope simuled the shield on the Willis Wall side as well as the bergschrund exit. Pulled onto Liberty Cap just after 7 a.m. in a fierce wind.


Fun Itinerary Facts:


White River CG > Curtis Ridge: 5.5 hrs.

Curtis Ridge > Thumb Rock: 5.5 hrs.

Thumb Rock > Liberty Cap: 6 hrs.

Liberty Cap > White River CG: 8 hrs. with lots of breaks.


Fun Gear Facts:


Our packs weighed 25 pounds each! Slept in a Firstlight and a Feathered Friends Vireo, the finest sleeping bag ever made. Used a 30m rope. Placed one picket (brought 2) and 5 ice screws (brought 3) on route.




Across the Winthrop:



On the Curtis Ridge:



The Carbon:



Rock low on the ridge:



The snow below Thumb Rock:



Clearing the bergschrund at 13k:





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Nice work!


I just logged in to CC.com to ask if there were any LR reports from this last week or so of nice weather, and here it is :)


Would be interested in seeing a gear / weight breakdown - I always seem to end up with 10 lbs in food for a 3-day climb (and usually don't have much left over :).

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Super sick! Nice work...I think you meant you brought 5 ice screws and placed 3? Think it'll shape up a little more with this weather for the coming weekend?

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Awesome work guys! That looks a bit different from my July 5-9 trip up there. I lagged too much in getting a report together for everyone. I'll still post up the very detailed report with pictures.



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Well done to you too Montana Climber!


Mhux- not too sure about next weekend. Although I am not familiar with that side of the mountain, my general impression was that the route was on its way to being out of shape. If I was going up there next weekend I would certainly try to develop a schedule that had me climbing the ridge below Thumb Rock (as well as the initial 1000' above Thumb, lots of stones there too) during the coldest part of the night...

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