mneagle Posted March 6, 2002 Share Posted March 6, 2002 Quebec has been warmer than usual like the rest of Canada, but it`s still cold enough to form some great ice. And talk about access...at the edge of Quebec City there is a 100m tall waterfall called Chute Montmorency that has routes from WI3 to 5 and it`s lit up by a big spot-light until midnight. After that we spent 2 days climbing in Pont Rouge. There is some awesome mixed climbing as well as some 50-60 meter tall icefalls. The approach is about a ten minute walk and the routes are one after the other on both sides of the river. The area is pretty difficult with only a small WI3 area to warm up on and otherwise mostly WI5 and M6 or higher. The mixed routes are bolted but the sedimentary rock is flakey and held together by the frozen dirt. Because of the warm temperatures, most of the locals are top-roping the area. There are still a whole bunch of hanging icicles, but they won`t last long. Unless you`re coming in the next week or two, better to wait and come back next January or Febuary when things are in the best shape and safer to lead. There are also a lot of great wilderness routes that are an hour or two out of Quebec, that can be done in a day with the help of snowmobiles for rent. local beta: Taiga: great climbing store with employees that speak English and can give you good info on local conditions 418-658-2742 Festiglace: a big climbing expo that goes on every year in late Febuary (you might want to come when the festival is not there) www.campdebase.com: Quebec climbers` website, but only in French La Guide des Cascades de Glace du Quebec by Stephan La Pierre and Jean-Claude Maurice published by LÈnchanteur Press is the best guide book (in French) The last issue of Gripped, a very cool Canadian climbing magazine (English), has a good guide for the more popular parts of Pont Rouge If my pictures turn out, I`ll try to scan a few and stick them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 6, 2002 Share Posted March 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mneagle: The last issue of Gripped, a very cool Canadian climbing magazine (English), has a good guide for the more popular parts of Pont Rouge GRIPPED IS NOT "VERY COOL". GRIPPED SUCKS!! Their three 'feature articles' in the latest issue were all advertorials! I wouldnt even wipe my ass with Gripped anymore! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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