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[TR] Yosemite National Park - Lurking Fear, 5.7 C2F, Grade VI, El Capitan 7/6/2012


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Trip: Yosemite National Park - Lurking Fear, 5.7 C2F, Grade VI, El Capitan


Date: 7/6/2012


Trip Report:

Climbed Lurking Fear July 6-9th with Ivan and Tvashvarkena.


July 2-Tvash arrives at my doorstep at 4AM. Luckily enough the youngest had just woken me up. We crashed for a couple more hours until we had light to pack up the car and jet for Yosemite. Arrived at Hardin Flats late that evening.


July 3-Drove into the valley and hit Camp 4 to find Ivan who is sitting relaxing after being fed breakfast by the neighboring Romanians. Hump load up to base of Lurking Fear and cache water. Ivan had already fixed the first 2 pitches solo the day before. Rest in river and grab big pizza.


July 4-First hitch in the plans when we discover a bear has damaged some water bottles and destroyed most of Ivan's food. Ivan and I fix to pitch 4 while Tvash repairs Ivans bear shredded thermarest pad. Ivan hikes out to get more food and water.(unknown to us he also hiked out half of Tvash's food in a trash bag and throws it away...)


July 5-Aborted launch attempt. We realize the load is too big for 5 days of water and food for 3 guys. We decide to fix to 6 and do 3 days on the wall with only a single portaledge to supplement existing ledges. Tvash and Ivan fix 5 and 6. I hike out the extra portaledge and some trash. Bags repacked for new plan.


July 6-2:30 A.M Launch!! Climb to pitch 10, I finish 10 in the dark and swing over to the "OK" bivy ledge which I share with Tvash that night. Ivan wrestles with the Elder Gods or at least an unstable portaledge most of the night, losing the fight as far as I could tell by the cloud of goosedown in the air.






July 7-Climb to pitch 14 after caching extra rope and the portaledge at 10. Swapping leads with Ivan as Tvash plays bag monkey. Ok bivy for the 3 of us on a natural ledge.





July 8-3 pitches to Thanksgiving Ledge and after an hour or two of relaxing we finish to the top of pitch 19 and hang out up on the shoulder of El Capitan before going back down to the ledge.



July 9-7 hours to rap to the ground down the route. I was the advance scout, zipping down a single fixed line to set up the next anchor before the double ropes were pulled and setup again. Saved on crowds at the anchors. Out of the woods and into the river before we run to the Pines campsite we had reserved.


Route comments-

Excellent route with mostly straightforward aid.

First time I have finished an El Cap route.

We closed down El Capitan as it was mid to high 80's on the ground and no one seemed to be climbing on the big stone but our small crew Lurking in the shadows for the first half of each day. A party of three does add to the complexity, ropes, haul weight etc, but having a third to manage the bag while the leader shortfixed when possible was fairly efficient.

I seemed to get the majority of the hooking pitches as well as the Grand Traverse(still waiting for a good picture of this) Tvash got the 80 foot of consistent 4-5 inch crack and quickly learned how to run it out.

Thanksgiving Ledge is amazing and allowed us to to actually take off our harnesses for a while.


After a rest day we decided to go climb in Tuolomne to avoid the heat. West Crack on DAFF was fun, I have not done that in 11 years, but you have never heard so much whining from a group of hardmen. My feet hurt! So tired! blah blah blah. We all agreed that it was time to go home and headed out. Stopping at some amazing natural hot springs in Cali to soak out some of the soreness.










What to climb next? Zodiac? Nose? Aquarian?


Gear Notes:

Used small cams extensively, especially blue/yellow offset. Did not use beaks as topo mentioned. Also found the distance from the lowest rap anchor was just barely 60m, making it impossible to haul on a single static rope from the ground without having to pass a knot. And pitches 18 and 19 can not and should not be linked as a single pitch to the bolts. It is at least 250 ft.


Approach Notes:

Long with fixed ropes, but nothing impossible.

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Nice work gents. I rope soloed this route back in May and that same bear also smoked my haul bag cached at the base. I was able to haul from the ground with a 60 though after swinging way over to the left. Barely reached and there was some cluster fuck but didn't have to pass a knot. Congrats.

Edited by jacramer
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