Lambone Posted February 19, 2002 Share Posted February 19, 2002 We were up there for three days, here's what we saw: HWY 99 South- Things are thinning and falling down-Syncro's: middle pitch(the long ramp) is gone. -Carl's Berg: looks pretty thin with lots of small holes.-Ramble's: is fat and crowded, heard there was an accident there on Sunday. Bridge Creek- Things are generally fatter-Jade Falls: looks in and fat from the road-Plan B: is there but the ice looked rotten.-Capricorn: looks all there including a sweet looking pillar pitch down low.-Old Dogs New Picks: looks climbable-poor pro-Silk Degrees: no good-Salmon Stakes: was C's first Ice climb!!, it's in realy good shape. Fat thunker blue ice. Almost not worth the sketchy steep frozen kitty litter approach though(not for the faint of heart). -Shreik o' Sheep: is fater then in mid Jan.-Night'ngale: some friends got on it...fat ice but sluffs spooked them off(understandably) Marble Canyon- Thicker + somewhat healed since Jan. WET Oregon Jack- in, climbed by several parties this weekend Honeyman: hollow ice on the right, wide open in the middleCherry Ice: climbed by a couple of parties, ice is a bit rotten Today(monday) was super warm, but it has been freezing at night so ice continues to grow and fill in, in certain areas. Hope that is usefull to someone...Have fun! P.S.- To the guy who wore his harness and slings to breakfast; thanks for the laugh man! Was that some kind of dare or something? [ 02-19-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 19, 2002 Author Share Posted February 19, 2002 Did some digging for info on the pillar below Capricorn that I mentioned above. Came up with this from the casbc site:Unnamed, 35m Grade 5. First recorded ascent John Millar, Conor Reynold; January 22, 2000. Two fine columns came in on the cliffband halfway up to Capricorn, an hour above the Bridge River road. This route is the left column, which was a steep, superb, full-on lead. There was a sling on a tree at the top of the route, so it obviously had seen a prior ascent, but by whom and when is not clear. A 4 Dressed Up as a 6, 30m Grade 5+. Kai Hirvonen, Sheila Sovereign; January 21, 2000. Like a Rocket, at the right side of the rim mentioned above, had previously been climbed (see photo CAJ’97 p80, captioned as Capricorn Column). That ascent, however, had overcome the pillar from its back side, leading - in the context of the times - to the waggish suggestion that the route ought better to be called Like a Hockey Coach. Kai and Sheila tackled the pillar straight-on, and fought their way up a stout pitch of extremely challenging ice. It that a new route? The pillar on the right is touching down and looks stellar(from the road). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 19, 2002 Share Posted February 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: P.S.- To the guy who wore his harness and slings to breakfast; thanks for the laugh man! Was that some kind of dare or something? [ 02-19-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Fred Beckey does stuff like that all the time. He likes to get going right out of the car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted February 19, 2002 Share Posted February 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Fred Beckey does stuff like that all the time. He likes to get going right out of the car... hear that jeff... you've got something in common with fred becky! you're a stud man... or should i say ropegun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstreet Posted February 19, 2002 Share Posted February 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by James: hear that jeff... you've got something in common with fred becky! you're a stud man... or should i say ropegun Thanks James! ... from now on just call me Jeff Becky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 21, 2002 Share Posted February 21, 2002 one time i wore my chalkbag into the squamish mcedonalds...about 1991...some guy in the line up asked me how the climbing had been that day. I thought "ALL right! Dude can tell I am an extreme rock athlete just by looking at me!". Then I realized I'd just forgotten to take off my chalkbag. Duh. might as well have taken a Majik Marker and written POSER in big letters on my forehead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted February 21, 2002 Share Posted February 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: one time i wore my chalkbag into the squamish mcedonalds...about 1991...some guy in the line up asked me how the climbing had been that day. I thought "ALL right! Dude can tell I am an extreme rock athlete just by looking at me!". Then I realized I'd just forgotten to take off my chalkbag. Duh. might as well have taken a Majik Marker and written POSER in big letters on my forehead. I'm surpised that nobody ever suggests such activities for rest days, but it is a well-known fact that sorting gear in El Cap Meadows is a sure-way to meet girls. Some of them want to become intimate (yawn), but some of them can get you free showers and a pic-nic lunch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted February 21, 2002 Share Posted February 21, 2002 My girlfriend and I were hanging out with my dad in Jackson Hole. A non-climbing friend of his from out east was visiting and my dad wanted to take him climbing. My dad gave him his old Willans harness and we set off for the crag. We stopped in town for some lunch and this dude and my dad bust out of their car (we were in seperate cars). My dad's wearing a full body stretch fleece jumpsuit and his friend's wearing the Willans harness. We walk through town (with my girlfriend and I following them from a block behind)laughing our asses off and watching everyone else in town staring and laughing. Funny thing is my dad's friend didn't even end up climbing. He got to the crag and felt too sick to climb from the altitude and the short hike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted February 21, 2002 Share Posted February 21, 2002 Heard a rumor that old Fred insists that the hardware be carried on the exterior of the pack, so that when "cows" approach, one can attract their attention by jangling the bells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted February 21, 2002 Share Posted February 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by pope: I'm surpised that nobody ever suggests such activities for rest days, but it is a well-known fact that sorting gear in El Cap Meadows is a sure-way to meet girls. Some of them want to become intimate (yawn), but some of them can get you free showers and a pic-nic lunch! A girl sorting gear will quickly attract a group of guys, however it is immediately obvious that they cannot get her free showers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstreet Posted February 26, 2002 Share Posted February 26, 2002 From the guy who wore his harness and slings to breakfast... here are a few photos from that weekend in BC... Vegetablebelay leading "Oregon Jack"... Jstreet (that's me) leading on "Night'n'gale"... Brooks leading the first pitch of "Icy BC"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 26, 2002 Author Share Posted February 26, 2002 Kick ass, nice photos! And good climbin fellas! Sorry I couldn't keep the breakfast comment in...just had to share the love. I'm sure you knew it was comin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted February 26, 2002 Share Posted February 26, 2002 Nice pics Jstreet! My, doesn't Icy BC look......steep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 26, 2002 Share Posted February 26, 2002 quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: Nice pics Jstreet! My, doesn't Icy BC look......steep Looks like Swiss Cheese with all those ergonomic foot holes/tool hooks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 26, 2002 Author Share Posted February 26, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Looks like Swiss Cheese with all those ergonomic foot holes/tool hooks. Yeah, it reminded me of a gym rat jug haul, I felt right at home Pro was crap, but you'd havta try to fall off... Too bad there isn't more TRable ice up there to distribute the masses and guided parties. Poor ICY BC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 26, 2002 Share Posted February 26, 2002 Rambles..... take a number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 26, 2002 Author Share Posted February 26, 2002 But the rambles has such a looooong approach.... Hey Dru, you should get together with Lyle and find a good spot to farm some ice. There has got to be some place that climbers could do it without impacting the drainage too much... Some friends of mine did it in Bozeman (despite resistance) and three Grade 5 pillars now form up every year. They are one of the most popular spots in Hyalite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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