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[TR] Leavenworth, Icicle Canyon - Playground Point Area 7/7/2012

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Trip: Leavenworth, Icicle Canyon - Playground Point Area


Date: 7/7/2012


Trip Report:

Broke out my new Viktor Kramar's Leavenworth Rock, met my crag buddy at 0430 and we made our way East landing at mile marker 5.+ on Icicle Road just outside of Leavenworth ETA 0630. There are so many climbing options in and around Leavenworth, and this being our first time climbing here we kept our expectations pretty low (needless to say, we'll be back 'cause those low expectations were knocked out of the water!)

We checked out some pics and notes online and between that beta and our own awesomeness we made it to our first belay. Trying to keep it simple, wanting an easy warm-up and done walking -- we decided to make the route up to Romper Room a 3 pitch event. Between Baby's behind, Baby steps and Baby's Bottom it was like we'd never left the kids at home! Easy stuff.

Hit the next pitch and Kramar didn't lie about Hopscotch being 5- . . . it was (but still held my attention as I was getting used to the granite.) The beta in Leavenworth Rock was good and the drawings a great help, we found the top of Playground and were glad we'd gotten there when we did 'cause others were already starting to make noise around us.

Now, I'm a lot newer to climbing than my partner, so I will readily admit that Romper Room, rated at 5.8+, really was 5.8+! It nearly kicked my ass. Not sure what it is, maybe my first time at Leavenworth or on this type of granite . . .

Strangely I made it cool and easy over what we think was the crux, then like an idiot I started choking on a part that my buddy ascended like a pro! Dick!

We hit Father's Day and did some mixed sport and trad, then with it getting hot and a little busy, we had a couple beers and aimed for a little more shade.

After hitting 6 or 7 pitches, 3 beers each (dang it was getting hot) and a snack on the Playground, we reversed trail and headed over to Central Park for some top-roping and asskicking on a 5.10 SOB! Dang, it was a great finish to a great day. There were a couple of dynamic moves we had to make -- really stretching us. The challenge of our thorough punking-out on the 1/4"-crimpy-fingers wall was compounded by the fact that the sun had supercharged the rock to uberheiss and we both swear to God it not only stole the pads from our fingers but gave us a couple of blisters as punishment for our indecisiveness when we should have kept pushing up instead of hang on. That damn wall pissed us both off so bad we managed to send with only a couple falls, scraped shins and a much reduced vocabulary -- mostly in the form of 4 letter words.

We stumbled back down the hill, loving rock more than ever, hit the car, stopped at Leavenworth Mountain Sports where I got a sweet deal on my first Alien Cam from Matthew (thanks Matthew!). As a great finish to our day my buddy bought the brauts and I the beer -- we drank too much and had to wait it off to drive home. I think I could get used to this!Buddy_checking_beta_before_cragfest_.jpgIcicle_River_facing_south.jpgIcicle_River_raging.jpg

Edited by edaskren

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If this had even a single descent climbing photo, I'd vote it most awesomeoust first post ever. Still excellent as you convey such happiness, thanks for sharing the stokage!!!!

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Thanks, yeh, I know . . . the problem is our own. You see we've been in the habit of not recording our climbing trips . . . . .'cause then we'd have to be responsible adults that hold down regular jobs, ergo -- no pictures. However, since I've now outed myself, will work on pics for the next time. Good suggestion. thanks!

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Right on! Conjures up some fond memories! Grats on a good time and hope we here of some more!

(and pics too :) although I did see some you posted in the gallery!


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