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shaoleung

Outer Space Traverse 5.9?

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Am I the only one that thinks the 3rd pitch traverse on Outer Space is 5.9d/10a or am I just that much of a sissy? Bring it...

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Sissy!

More like 5.9b-.

 

With the new bolts I'm going to up on that traverse this weekend it should be much more cruiser though. Also, going to put in bolted rap stations due to all the traffic it sees. Everyone can thank me later.

 

See you out there!

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Well, since you onsight 5.8, I guess it would feel 5.10 :wave:

 

I think mentally it is hard to commit to that step-out, making the rest of the traverse feel harder than it actually is.

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Sissy!

More like 5.9b-.

 

With the new bolts I'm going to up on that traverse this weekend it should be much more cruiser though. Also, going to put in bolted rap stations due to all the traffic it sees. Everyone can thank me later.

 

See you out there!

 

Trolling trolling trolling

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Am I the only one that thinks the 3rd pitch traverse on Outer Space is 5.9d/10a or am I just that much of a sissy? Bring it...

 

Its technical. Also there's a somewhat hidden foothold

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Getting up to the traverse and stepping out is hard. The traverse is easier, especially if you have a long reach. It's as much sporty side-pulling as crack climbing.

 

I vote: 5.9. 5.9 doesn't mean "easy", you know?

 

The moves off Library Ledge are more questionable, to me.

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Word. I am being a sissy... I blame it on the ominous clouds that threatened to piss on us... plus I just need to man up and quit pulling on pints.

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Yeah... did orbit a couple weeks ago. Much more sustained (though easier)... and much more fun in my opinion.

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the right hand start off two tree is better than that bullshit glassy lieback. I'm always sketched doing the traverse but that's because I'm a fat puss and big flexing flakes give me the willies.

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Well said. I'm right there with you. The big flexing flakes agreed with me about as much as the spicy burrito I ate after the climb.

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Sissy!

Also, going to put in bolted rap stations due to all the traffic it sees. Everyone can thank me later.

 

 

Sweet.

 

I didn't know 5.9d existed. It sounds harder than 10a.

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It felt 5.9 to me. No harder than Ski tracks, The Bone, Deception Crack, etc...Actually, I think it's easier than P1 of Canary or S. Face Jello Tower. The feet are excellent on that pitch.

 

If you thought that was a sandbag, have you been to J-tree or the Gunks?

Edited by malcolm777b

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It felt 5.9 to me. No harder than Ski tracks,

 

I agree that it is no harder than 5.9, but less secure than Ski Tracks with its sloping hortizontal crack and big exposure.

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I didn't fall or hang on the traverse so it must be 5.9 or less, I fell on the step right off library ledge so it must be 5.10d

 

:)

 

Getting up to the traverse and stepping out is hard. The traverse is easier, especially if you have a long reach. It's as much sporty side-pulling as crack climbing.

 

I vote: 5.9. 5.9 doesn't mean "easy", you know?

 

The moves off Library Ledge are more questionable, to me.

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Solid 5.8+ :fight:

 

Heady/committing/greasy/technical 5.9 is about right. If you go into it with 5.10 footwork it's no problem and definitely 5.9 but it can't be muscled, must be finnessed. Also helps if you're flexible an can stretch to the good foothold :)

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Word. I am being a sissy... I blame it on the ominous clouds that threatened to piss on us... plus I just need to man up and quit pulling on pints.

 

The traverse is the best place to be on that route if it's raining.

 

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Am I the only one that thinks the 3rd pitch traverse on Outer Space is 5.9d/10a or am I just that much of a sissy? Bring it...

 

Lots of guys like you have cried like a school girl. Once you figure out the sequence....it's straight forward climbing.

 

:yoda:

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5.9 is a fucked up grade anyway. It runs the gamut from stupid easy to downright desperate. I'd say it's somewhere in the middle with this one, not as hard as the last pitch of Lovin arms for me or Inca roads either... But still harder than some 9's in ltown.

 

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...The moves off Library Ledge are more questionable, to me.

 

Totes!

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