shapp Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Going to be up there in latter summer for work trip, going to hit up Chimney Rock in the Selkirks. Any recommendation an a really fun route in the low 5.10 to 5.9 range or less, hand cracks would be nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hall Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 East Side: Cooper-Hiser (.9). If you can muster it, climb the Canary Legs start (.10). The original first pitch isn't very good (near mandatory use of a rotten stump and a sandy, poorly protected gully). Likely the best route on Chimney. West Side: It Ain't Hay (.9). If you can muster it, finish via Fun Roof (.10). The South Nose (standard) exit is cool, however. The Rappel Chimney has numerous variations in the .6-.8 range, and fun cracks can be found throughout. Just make sure no one is rapping! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Good suggestions. But I'd like to offer a differing opinion. Although I can't think of a bad route there, having done all of the free routes several times over. Cooper/Hiser is a little loose and not getting any better over time. These are two of the best at the grades you are asking about I think. The best route on Chimney...almost all hand crack and super sharp edged laybacks is Free Friends. East face and every bit is amazing crack climbing on perfect rock with plug in pro darn near any where. Only the roof (easy under cling actually) is a little harder and not much unless you try to lay back the entire thing out of the roof. If you can climb .10a hand cracks start on the first pitch and see how you fair. If that short pitch is too much, easy to get off from the upper ledge on that pitch. The adventure and climbing will be worth every second either way. It is one of the best crack climbs I have done anywhere..as in anywhere! It is also THE line on Chimney Rock among many. The west face? West Face Direct. Pro could be better on the crux corner shown below. But it is only 5.8. You'll want to be solid on 5.8. I wasn't my first trip up the climb. But it was "easy" enough. The 2nd ascent of Yahoody also on the east face...another spectacular line. And the 1st ascent of Fun Roof on the west face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hall Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Dane's right (of course!) and his name is written all over the history of that place! Free Friends is an AWESOME route. It is more sustained .10 climbing than the ones I suggested. The ".10c" designation scared me off for alot of years. Go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Here is a more recent piture and my old pair of Boreals looking down at Martin from the no hands rest mid way up the first pitch of FFs. You step into the right..hand crack.. from here and run it out to a good series of ledges higher up. The crack continues through the roof from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 Damn, nice suggestions, I could defenitely pull of the harder route leads, but will probably have to actually do some upper body exercise to pull my lard ass up those. I can usually off the coach complete 5.9 to lower 5.10, but the harder 5.10 might require some pre-planned workouts to reduce the hangdog time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 That west face direct pic is ver appealing. I've really got to make a first visit to Chimney one of these days, Idaho just keeps creeping higher in my regard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pu Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 SAD NEWS!!!!! Went to Chimney today. As we arrived at the base I noticed a ton, probably hundreds of tons, of rock on the snowfield that seemed out of place. Looking up at the East Face I was shocked. The following routes no longer exist!! Except in Dane's slides. Greystoke Magnum Force UNI White Lightning Kimmie Yahoody Pitch 2 of Cooper Hiser The following routes still exist. East Face Direct Canary Legs Cooper Hiser pitch 1 Free Friends Tsunami Illusion/Eye of the Tiger Graymatter NE Face I'll get a pic up later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Bummer? Sure, but no surprise really. New routes to do now!!! ...but likely you don't want to be there until things settle down some. ;-) Zach Turner's photos: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 Dam it Dam it, son of a bitch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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