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WTB, The Waddington Guide

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howdy ya'll. looking for a copy of the guidebook as I guess it's out of print. I can take your tattered old book and put it to good use.


alternatively, recommended routes in the 5.8-5.10 range around the tellot glacier?



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Sorry, can't have mine. =-)


Don Serl is sometimes online and you can send him a Personal Message. Put the request in the Canada section he seems to check that fairly often.



Tellot Spire can't be beat. Quite a bit of ice though. 5.9

Claw peak right next to Plummer Hut also is great. 5.8


Several I have not done. There are numerous such routes. Several on the upper Tellot Glacier around 11,000 feet. Forget their exact names. Never had time for them. If I was in kick ass shape, I am not, rather piss poor sick shape, I would be very tempted to try for Serra 5 west face. Its 5.11 and??? 1100 feet of pure vertical granitic rock? I believe.

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the guide is still readily available, altho I imagine few retailers in the US stock it. you can purchase directly from the publisher:




as for the Upper Tellot, there are literally dozens of fine rock routes available. I like camping high, up by Dragonback, to shorten approaches. there are short routes (2-4p) on Tellot Spires and Dentiform, plus nearby Shand and McCormick. longer routes are found on Stilleto, Stilleto Needle, the Serras, the east face of Shand, etc. the rock is generally extremely good, altho this is the mountains and a few bits of looseness and gritty surface are found here and there.


once you've looked thru the guide to get an overview and a start at specific objectives, feel free to PM me if you've got detailed questions.


enjoy your trip - it's a fabulous place!

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