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Drury/Pencil

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According to Rat, on 1/22:

"There isn't much in the way of pure ice climbing to be had as of the last few days---drury/pencil still out, hidden lake routes forming but have holes, and other popular areas like hubba hubba/the smear are real thin. plenty of mixed routes for you dry-toolers out there but expect more snow than ice in the combo. "

[ 01-23-2002: Message edited by: mattp ]

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You shouldn't expect any of the ice beta on this site to be valid. If it's in, all the ice snobs (those who lead WI5+ ergo are better and more deserving than the rest of us ice gumbies) are going to tell you it sucks because they don't want you to hack up their precious ice. Anyone who's really in the know will try and mislead you. Anyone who posts useful beta will get slammed, spammed, and damned by the ice police.

If you want to climb ice you'd better find a friend who lives near it or do the drive and hike yourself. Don't expect good ice beta to be given out freely on this site. There are no free rides. tongue.gif" border="0

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Oh Matt the pessimist,

The reports of there being no ice might in fact be good people just trying to save you the drive. You give climbers too much credit with trying to mislead fellow citizens. (save that for politicians) The reason why we have time to write here is because of being shut down from ice climbing. The time to look for ice is when there is lack of people reporting bad conditions, cause we are out hacking it up for ourselves. (like have you heard any bad reports except from rat lately?) I am heading out tomorrow and will report if it bad. If not, then get out.

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forecast for lillooet is looking wet & warm. bring your bladder and lungs for a bar session. they got Slawinski to do a slide show so we have smething to look at besides icegirl.

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matt,i'll amend my pessimism just for you since you seem desperate for pain. there is probably some ice at the "millenium wall" near snow creek wall. there is a short pillar formed across the creek as you head up toward the eightmile lake trailhead. the cirque below the cannon mt. couloir also holds a few moderate lines if you want to do the approach. there are also two routes up rat creek but access is across private land so you're on your own. avy conditions probably won't work in your favor in the latter two areas.

also, as other folks have said tonight, there is ice up near nada and snow lakes if you're willing to shut your pie-hole and get off your ass. at least two climbs were done near nada lake in the late 70's-early 80's.

just noticed the photo of limestone near metaline falls. where there's limestone, there is often ice. anyone have any info? i have been past china bend, another limestone area along lake roosevelt, in the winter and not seen any ice.

puke blood,ratfuckjingusdog

[ 01-23-2002: Message edited by: rat ]

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Matt:

There is good ice at Lee Vining, if you care to make the drive--(15) hours from Vancouver, WA; add another (3) for Renton. I was there 01/17 and 01/18. Check out the conditions at: www.themountainguide.com (updated weekly, and I found them to be very accurate).

There is ice available, but--unfortunately--not much close to home this season. "Maybe next year. . ."

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Matt,

If you dislike the ice beta that bad, don't look or ask for it. If your that interested in the climb, nothing serves better that to check it out yourself. I think most beta on the site is useful, that is if posted under the correct thread. smile.gif" border="0

Tim

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Tim & Vegie Pocket,

I think there is a conspiracy going on in the PNW that is worthy of an X-File. All I hear is "no ice-- melting ice-- what started to form is falling down-- no ice-- don't even bother with this ice-- just a waterfall-- no ice-- maybe next year-- save yourself the drive-- no ice-- like to ice climbing? Go to Cascade Crags in Everett-- ice rained out-- the biggest icicle I saw this year was in a Nalgene bottle mixed with Scotch-- sorry, no ice-- Got ice?-- snow on top of rock is close to ice, right? -- no ice-- winter sucks-- wanna climb ice? let's go to Erik's freezer-- can't top rope ice-- no ice-- "

What's the deal? There is ice out there. There has to be. Am I in denial? I'm sorry, I'm jonesing a little. Anyone for a trip up north this weekend? wink.gif" border="0

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Thanks for the heads up Rat. I'm feelin' better already. I know a man with a plan and we're gonna find some sweet ice pickles to dangle from. I will do my best to puke blood, that's part of the plan.

As for you Michael, if I were to drive 15+ hours to climb ice I certainly would not go south to Cali, but I'm glad you're gettin' some.

And Gene, you're a good egg. Let's go climb, eh? [big Drink][big Drink][big Drink]

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Matt:

Hope you find some climbable ice nearby. Lee Vining would be a long drive as its own destination, but for us, it was on the way home from Joshua Tree. And it turned out to be a really nice detour--highly recommended if you are down that way.

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It is raining at 8 miles east of the pass and very little ice in sight. None worth climbing only putting into drinks.

If you think I am full of shite and "hoggin" the ice go look for yourself.

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quote:

Originally posted by philfort:
Temps in eastern washington seemer warmer than in western washington today.

...nice report philfort. Ever thought about a career with King 5 Weather? [Moon]

[ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: trask ]

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The concept of a weather forecaster in the NW seems a little funny to me. Five Day forecast: Rain, Rain, Rain, Showers, Partly Cloudy with a chance of...Rain.

At least the WB station here has the right idea, they just put this hot-ass chick on to sway around and say "tomorrow you'll see rain". Hey, I like it, so it's gonna feel wet huh honey?

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quote:

Originally posted by willstrickland:
The concept of a weather forecaster in the NW seems a little funny to me. Five Day forecast: Rain, Rain, Rain, Showers, Partly Cloudy with a chance of...Rain.

At least the WB station here has the right idea, they just put this hot-ass chick on to sway around and say "tomorrow you'll see rain". Hey, I like it, so it's gonna feel wet huh honey?

that's beautiful Will. I like it.

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I hiked up the Shuksan Arm last Tuesday and there were several climbable flows, drips and smears on the north side of that giant rock band. If you were to take chair 7 to chair 8 and connect up with the Arm, it would be about a 2-3 hour hike/ski. The rock band essentially forms a barrier on the Arm to accessing the White Salmon glacier.

The warm trend we had this week may have destroyed a lot of it though, who knows.

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Drury and the Pencil are now forming nicely, but the upper part of Drury is still open (on the right) and still open a bit in the middle as well.

The steep section of the Pencil has yet to form, but a good amount of ice above that, at least this year we have the water now we just need some more cold weather!

Dan E.

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