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markseker

[TR] Mt Hood - South side 6/20/2012

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Trip: Mt Hood - South side

Date: 6/20/2012

Trip Report:

 

Summited yesterday via most used variation of SS route, which continues to be the old chute. A few of the 30-40 near summit yesterday used the old-standard Pearly Gates route.

 

Above 9500', while air condition was stellar, surface was not in the novice-friendly condition typical for June most notably due to absence of a defined "stairway to heaven" boot path. It wasn't icy, but snow was too hard and fresh (it snowed in past week; more expected this week) for the path to be made. Thus, front and side pointing are required to summit, skills the novice climber isn't likely to have or enjoy. Especially descending. Protection via anchored rope recommended for novice teams.

 

Yesterday, my 1st-timer teammate (42 yr old fit endurance athlete and outdoors-woman) called it the hardest, scariest thing she'd done. It was my 28th summit of Hood and I found it one of the most demanding SS climbs I've done.

 

IMG_0821.jpgIMG_07972.JPGIMG_07912.jpgIMG_07881.JPGIMG_08122.jpg

Edited by markseker

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do the steps usually appear as the weather warms up? I was up there about a week ago, and there were zero steps.

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i was up there that day and it was business as normal. people roped up but setting no pro, a GLACIER team in the pearly gates on their hands and knees, and one group of 3 with the first two short roped about 5 feet apart, and the last one about 100 feet behind the first 2.

 

it was good climbing and you could kick strong steps about 4 inches deep. in my opinion it was some easy climbing! i soloed :yawn: the pearly gates w/ skis on my back, there was maybe 10 feet of 30 degree ice.

 

the most dangerous objective hazards are the climbers above you!

Edited by christophbenells

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Would the forecast for this weekend (40% chance of rain on Saturday, chance of showers on Sunday) be considered an unfavorable forecast for climbing Sunday morning?

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I always look at a variety of forecasts. Go to the Timberline site and look at the snowcast http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Timberline/6day/mid - I find that the most helpful. It is quite nice for Sunday - though it looks like an early start is warranted given how high the freezing level will go. How comfortable are you with navigation in the clouds? How do you feel about wind? Sunny and a freezing level of 11,000 with winds of 10 mph and dropping looks quite stellar.

 

Always look again before you pack the car to go. Always go up to the top of Palmer before deciding to turn around. Many times I find that I climb above the clouds into fine weather. The one element that these weather forecasts miss is the ccloud ceiling. I am picky about wanting to summit with views. However, I can be quite comfortable navigating by Braille.

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