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Ozone


kevbone

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  • 7 months later...

Climbed at the Ozone yesterday. Super windy and cold....but it was sunny.

 

Got on:

 

Dirty Jugs

Carrots for Everyone

Chain Mail

High Plains Drifter

Ripper

 

All the climbs were very dry and totally awesome.

 

Also climbed with my old friend Marc Farra whom I have not climbed with in over 10 years.

 

 

 

 

"There is not such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing"

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BD 0.75 Cam welded behind the flake on Standing Ovation, not sure who got it in there but it is stuck good.

 

Anyone lead Big Dipper? Not much gear until midway, anyone tried a Big Bro?

 

 

 

I doubt that anyone has lead Big Dipper since the FA. I talked with Micah about the climb and he mentioned that an unknown person put a bolt in it and that it was later chopped. I don't see a good way to protect it but didn't scrutinize it either; too busy grunting and cussing.

 

How would a .75 C4 get stuck behind the flake on Standing Ovation? That spot takes a #4 C4, no?

 

 

Chad

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BD 0.75 Cam welded behind the flake on Standing Ovation, not sure who got it in there but it is stuck good.

 

Anyone lead Big Dipper? Not much gear until midway, anyone tried a Big Bro?

 

 

 

I doubt that anyone has lead Big Dipper since the FA. I talked with Micah about the climb and he mentioned that an unknown person put a bolt in it and that it was later chopped. I don't see a good way to protect it but didn't scrutinize it either; too busy grunting and cussing.

 

How would a .75 C4 get stuck behind the flake on Standing Ovation? That spot takes a #4 C4, no?

 

 

Chad

 

Not an unknown climber. I drilled the hole (I cleaned the climb and put the anchor in). We top roped it and decided it did not protect well at all. So we drilled the hole. Then at the last second decided not to place it. Then Micha came along and climbed it. He rated it 5.8 at first, where the rest of us top roping it thought more along the lines of 10.c. then he came to a final grade of 10.a which IMO is still very sand bagged. I wish I would have gone ahead and placed the bolt. Nobody climbs it because there is NO protection from hitting the ground if you screw it up. Oh well.

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How would a .75 C4 get stuck behind the flake on Standing Ovation? That spot takes a #4 C4, no?

 

 

 

I have seen some people lead it straight up and come in from the right and place smaller cams. I lead it up and to the left and place a 3 or a 4 inch behind the top of the flake.

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BD 0.75 Cam welded behind the flake on Standing Ovation, not sure who got it in there but it is stuck good.

 

Anyone lead Big Dipper? Not much gear until midway, anyone tried a Big Bro?

 

 

 

I doubt that anyone has lead Big Dipper since the FA. I talked with Micah about the climb and he mentioned that an unknown person put a bolt in it and that it was later chopped. I don't see a good way to protect it but didn't scrutinize it either; too busy grunting and cussing.

 

Chad

 

Not an unknown climber. I drilled the hole (I cleaned the climb and put the anchor in). We top roped it and decided it did not protect well at all. So we drilled the hole. Then at the last second decided not to place it. Then Micha came along and climbed it. He rated it 5.8 at first, where the rest of us top roping it thought more along the lines of 10.c. then he came to a final grade of 10.a which IMO is still very sand bagged. I wish I would have gone ahead and placed the bolt. Nobody climbs it because there is NO protection from hitting the ground if you screw it up. Oh well.

 

 

Thanks for clarifying things Kevin. So what did he use for protection on the FA, nothing? For what it's worth, Olson has it listed as a 5.11a in the newest PRC book.

 

 

Chad

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Thanks for clarifying things Kevin. So what did he use for protection on the FA, nothing? For what it's worth, Olson has it listed as a 5.11a in the newest PRC book.

 

 

Chad

 

Well....I have serious issues with the new Olson Guide and he knows it. I have spoken with him on this issue. He changed quite a few of the original ratings which is a serious no no in the climbing world.

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Thanks for clarifying things Kevin. So what did he use for protection on the FA, nothing? For what it's worth, Olson has it listed as a 5.11a in the newest PRC book.

 

 

Chad

 

Well....I have serious issues with the new Olson Guide and he knows it. I have spoken with him on this issue. He changed quite a few of the original ratings which is a serious no no in the climbing world.

 

And now we all KNOW it to. Thanks for sharing. Carry on...

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I love when the 'school groups' come out to Ozone and leave their shit all over the place. Empty boxes, food wrappers and empty drink containers. I picked up a bunch of their shit after they left on the weekend. Too bad the course didn't include a lesson on crag etiquette and pitching in.

 

Next time I'll make sure to ask where they are from so I can inform the institute what a fine outdoor program they are running.

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Agreed. Not to mention 25 people with 2 ropes and only one person to direct the traffic made for a clusterf*ck in the two areas that they monopolized.

 

There are plenty of routes, but it would have been nice to get to the upper pitches and climb hang up's. Oh well next time.

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